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"I Need a New PC!" 2017 The Ryzing of Kaby Lake and NVMwhee!

Chozo

Member
Quick question which may make a difference on the case I choose: is it possible to do the initial Windows install from a DVD drive connected via USB?
 

Ecto311

Member
Wondering if I should do the evga step up program for a 1080 ti from my 1080 blower. It would run me about $100 according to the site. I have a 1080p monitor and don't see my self getting a new one anytime soon. I do have an oculus though.

Also are a lot of oculus games going to benefit from a coffee lake 6 core i5 or i7? I have the 2500k i5 and benches on youtube show little benefit from a rebuild of the processor or motherboard setup I already have.
 

DrCheese

Member
4790K -> 8700K
16GB DDR3-1600 -> 32GB DDR4-3200
H100i AIO -> Cryorig H7

It's the most pointless upgrade I have done in a while, but a USD 480 killer deal for both the 8700K and the MSI Z370M Pro Gaming AC mobo is simply too irresistible to pass up. Couldn't fit my old H100i in my new mATX case(hated the cable clutter anyway), so I switched back to the boring but effective Cryorig H7.

Now to stop caring about desktop CPUs for like the next 5 years.

Have you really noticed it? I've got a 4770k that I'm tempted to upgrade to the 8700k but I'm really torn if it's worth the cost of changing virtually every major part of my build bar the GPU (1070) :/

I'm memory bound at the mo (8gb DDR3) and I'm loathe to drop cash on extra DDR3 when it's "outdated"
 

Joaopbp

Neo Member
I've been seeing a lot of reviews from different gtx 1080's, what do you guys think of Zotac gtx 1080 mini?
One of the cheapest 1080's and its performance seems rather similar to other models.
 
I've been seeing a lot of reviews from different gtx 1080's, what do you guys think of Zotac gtx 1080 mini?
One of the cheapest 1080's and its performance seems rather similar to other models.

I believe it's comparable to the founders edition in terms of heat/performance. Might be wrong and getting it mixed up with the Zotac Mini 1080Ti. It's fine really, but unless you're planning to put it in a small form factor PC, you'd probably be better off with a different model around the same price.
 

LilJoka

Member
I've been seeing a lot of reviews from different gtx 1080's, what do you guys think of Zotac gtx 1080 mini?
One of the cheapest 1080's and its performance seems rather similar to other models.

I wouldn't gimp cooling with the mini cards if you can fit the full size cards.
I have the Asus Strix 1080 in a Node 304 ITX case.
 
I wouldn't gimp cooling with the mini cards if you can fit the full size cards.
I have the Asus Strix 1080 in a Node 304 ITX case.

The zotac minis are very well built, althought they are small they are very solid. Definately better than reference,imo. Ive got 2 1070tis and definately recommend the minis if you want something easy to fit in your case. But yea definately dont expect the greatest overclocks.

How the hell did you fit a strix in there. The strix cooler is really ridiculous.
 

LilJoka

Member
The zotac minis are very well built, althought they are small they are very solid. Definately better than reference,imo. Ive got 2 1070tis and definately recommend the minis if you want something easy to fit in your case. But yea definately dont expect the greatest overclocks.

How the hell did you fit a strix in there. The strix cooler is really ridiculous.

You just slot it in :)
Don't buy reference, that's for sure.

Gpu is a gpu, fit the biggest one with the biggest cooler that you can fit. It'll run quieter and might allow for higher sustained boost clocks.
 

RazielPrime

Neo Member
Complete upgrade from my 5-year old build of this:

CPU = Intel i5-3570K (OC'd to 4.1GHz)
CPU Cooler = Cooler Master 212 EVO
Motherboard = Asus P8Z77-V
Memory = 16GB of Ballistix Tactical Tracer LED RAM
Boot Drive = Samsung EVO 250 SSD (added since 2013)
Storage = 3 WD drives (2TB, 3TB, and 4TB)
Sound Card = Sound Blaster Z
GPU = EVGA NVIDIA GTX 1070 (added November 2016)
Power Supply = Corsair HX 750 watt
Case = InWin GRone Grey

to this:

CPU = Intel I7-8700k (OC'd to 4.7GHz)
CPU Cooler = Corsair Hydro Series H100i V2 Extreme Performance Water / Liquid CPU Cooler. 240mm
RGB LED set-up: CORSAIR Lighting Node PRO CL-9011109-WW, RGB Lighting Controller with 4 RGB LED Strips

2 x Corsair HD Series, HD120 RGB LED, 120mm
3 x Corsair HD Series, HD140 RGB LED

Motherboard = ASUS ROG STRIX Z370-E GAMING
Memory = 32GB (4 x 8GB) CORSAIR Vengeance RGB DDR4 3466 (PC4-27700)
Boot Drive = Samsung 960 EVO Series - 250GB PCIe NVMe - M.2 SSD
Storage = 2 x WD Black 6TB Performance Desktop Hard Disk Drive - 7200 RPM SATA 6Gb/s
Sound Card = Sound Blaster Z (kept from previous)
GPU= ASUS ROG-STRIX-GTX1080TI-O11G-GAMING
Power Supply = Corsair RMx Series, RM850x, 850W, Fully Modular, 80+ Gold
Case = Thermaltake View 71 4-Sided Tempered Glass Vertical GPU Modular SPCC E-ATX Gaming Full Tower
CORSAIR Lighting Node PRO CL-9011109-WW, RGB Lighting Controller with Individually Addressable RGB LED Strips

2 x Corsair HD Series, HD120 RGB LED, 120mm
3 x CORSAIR HD Series, HD140 RGB LED
[/QUOTE]

I did it, and built a tiny god ^_^

Spoiler'd for bigness
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8i6P6Vm.jpg




tWdQ21d.jpg


GtSDUIh.jpg



rj6ArLK.jpg
c1MqWmG.jpg


agLLLOS.jpg
 
Complete upgrade from my 5-year old build of this:

CPU = Intel i5-3570K (OC'd to 4.1GHz)
CPU Cooler = Cooler Master 212 EVO
Motherboard = Asus P8Z77-V
Memory = 16GB of Ballistix Tactical Tracer LED RAM
Boot Drive = Samsung EVO 250 SSD (added since 2013)
Storage = 3 WD drives (2TB, 3TB, and 4TB)
Sound Card = Sound Blaster Z
GPU = EVGA NVIDIA GTX 1070 (added November 2016)
Power Supply = Corsair HX 750 watt
Case = InWin GRone Grey

to this:

CPU = Intel I7-8700k (OC'd to 4.7GHz)
CPU Cooler = Corsair Hydro Series H100i V2 Extreme Performance Water / Liquid CPU Cooler. 240mm
RGB LED set-up: CORSAIR Lighting Node PRO CL-9011109-WW, RGB Lighting Controller with 4 RGB LED Strips

2 x Corsair HD Series, HD120 RGB LED, 120mm
3 x Corsair HD Series, HD140 RGB LED

Motherboard = ASUS ROG STRIX Z370-E GAMING
Memory = 32GB (4 x 8GB) CORSAIR Vengeance RGB DDR4 3466 (PC4-27700)
Boot Drive = Samsung 960 EVO Series - 250GB PCIe NVMe - M.2 SSD
Storage = 2 x WD Black 6TB Performance Desktop Hard Disk Drive - 7200 RPM SATA 6Gb/s
Sound Card = Sound Blaster Z (kept from previous)
GPU= ASUS ROG-STRIX-GTX1080TI-O11G-GAMING
Power Supply = Corsair RMx Series, RM850x, 850W, Fully Modular, 80+ Gold
Case = Thermaltake View 71 4-Sided Tempered Glass Vertical GPU Modular SPCC E-ATX Gaming Full Tower
CORSAIR Lighting Node PRO CL-9011109-WW, RGB Lighting Controller with Individually Addressable RGB LED Strips

2 x Corsair HD Series, HD120 RGB LED, 120mm
3 x CORSAIR HD Series, HD140 RGB LED

I did it, and built a tiny god ^_^

Spoiler'd for bigness
6iQ701m.jpg




7U6uvlr.jpg




8i6P6Vm.jpg




tWdQ21d.jpg


GtSDUIh.jpg



rj6ArLK.jpg
c1MqWmG.jpg


agLLLOS.jpg
[/QUOTE]

Oh dear why all the LEDS?
 
I took my build from last year and downsized to ITX.

Case: Cougar QBX
CPU: Ryzen 1600
Motherboard: Asus B350i
PSU: Corsair SF600
GPU: EVGA SC2 1080
RAM: Team Group Vulcan 2x8Gb 3000mhz

Also featuring two 120mmx15mm Noctua fans, NH-D9L cooler, 240Gb SSD and 1TB SSHD.
 
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mili2110

Member
Complete upgrade from my 5-year old build of this:

CPU = Intel i5-3570K (OC'd to 4.1GHz)
CPU Cooler = Cooler Master 212 EVO
Motherboard = Asus P8Z77-V
Memory = 16GB of Ballistix Tactical Tracer LED RAM
Boot Drive = Samsung EVO 250 SSD (added since 2013)
Storage = 3 WD drives (2TB, 3TB, and 4TB)
Sound Card = Sound Blaster Z
GPU = EVGA NVIDIA GTX 1070 (added November 2016)
Power Supply = Corsair HX 750 watt
Case = InWin GRone Grey

to this:

CPU = Intel I7-8700k (OC'd to 4.7GHz)
CPU Cooler = Corsair Hydro Series H100i V2 Extreme Performance Water / Liquid CPU Cooler. 240mm
RGB LED set-up: CORSAIR Lighting Node PRO CL-9011109-WW, RGB Lighting Controller with 4 RGB LED Strips

2 x Corsair HD Series, HD120 RGB LED, 120mm
3 x Corsair HD Series, HD140 RGB LED

Motherboard = ASUS ROG STRIX Z370-E GAMING
Memory = 32GB (4 x 8GB) CORSAIR Vengeance RGB DDR4 3466 (PC4-27700)
Boot Drive = Samsung 960 EVO Series - 250GB PCIe NVMe - M.2 SSD
Storage = 2 x WD Black 6TB Performance Desktop Hard Disk Drive - 7200 RPM SATA 6Gb/s
Sound Card = Sound Blaster Z (kept from previous)
GPU= ASUS ROG-STRIX-GTX1080TI-O11G-GAMING
Power Supply = Corsair RMx Series, RM850x, 850W, Fully Modular, 80+ Gold
Case = Thermaltake View 71 4-Sided Tempered Glass Vertical GPU Modular SPCC E-ATX Gaming Full Tower
CORSAIR Lighting Node PRO CL-9011109-WW, RGB Lighting Controller with Individually Addressable RGB LED Strips

2 x Corsair HD Series, HD120 RGB LED, 120mm
3 x CORSAIR HD Series, HD140 RGB LED

nice build! Would have chosen another case with PSU shrout. I guess cable management is not your strength? ^^
 
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Ecto311

Member
I had originally planned on a 1060 for my build, but with GPU prices going through the roof I ended up pulling the trigger on this:

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814487244

Good deal for a 1080 (got it for $660)?

I would say its a good deal. I think the msrp is like 500 so that isn't much more. That also lets you do the step up program through EVGA in the next 90 days if you wanna get a better card. I hear rumors of the next nvidia cards either next month or september. I have no idea who is right but I just stepped up my 1080 to a TI for $160. I hear its a good deal considering it will last a lot longer - or I hope.
 

I_D

Member
Alright guys, I have a weird one. If this isn't the place for this question, let me know and I'll repost.

After testing the system out in a million different ways, I've whittled the problem down to this issue: My computer is running Vulkan and OpenGL games perfectly fine, exactly as they should. The moment I start up a DirectX game, my Nvidia drivers immediately uninstall, the computer switches to MS basic display drivers, and obviously the game doesn't work.

Restarting the computer fixes the issue, but then they uninstall again as soon as I start a DX game. Again, vulkan and OpenGL games work perfectly.

I've tried all kinds of things: Changing the PCI-E slot, different GPU, different HDMI cables, new PSU, flashed new BIOS, reset CMOS, different display, reformatted Windows 10, and anything else I could think.


Anybody have an idea what's going on? I'm thinking the problem is somewhere in the MOBO, but the different PCI-E slot and perfectly-working different APIs are throwing me for a loop.
Before I spend money on a new MOBO, I'd like to see if anybody has any other ideas to try.
 

Tajaz2426

Psychology PhD from Wikipedia University
Just got done building my second PC with my son, here are the specs:
CPU: i7-8700k
CPU Cooler: EVGA CLC 280
Motherboard: MSI Z370 Gaming M5 (love the gun metal look)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance RGB 3600hz
Storage: Crucial 1TB MX500, Crucial 1 TB M.2 MX300, Seagate 2 TB barracuda
GPU: EVGA GTX 1080ti FTW3
PSU EVGA 750 Watts B3
Case: EVGA DG-86

My wife and my 2 boys got me the parts for Christmas, I was very excited.

This was the PC I built last year, when my oldest was teaching me about PCs

CPU: i7-7700k
CPU Cooler: EVGA CLC 120
Motherboard: MSI Z270 Gaming M5
Memory: Corsair Vengeace 3200hz
Storage: Crucial 1TB MX300, Crucial 1TB M.2 MX300, Seagate 1TB Barracude
GPU: EVGA GTX 1080 FTW2
PSU: EVGA 750 Watts B2
Case: NZXT H440 Razer edition

I gave this one to my younger son, as he wanted to start PC gaming with his brother and I. He can also now use it for his school work instead of having to borrow mine, which is a pretty deal.
 

ZBR

Member
Considering that I'm looking to build a pc that is going to be for homework and netflix/media, should I go with the Ryzen 2400g instead of the Ryzen 2200g? I'm a Bioinformatics major and in a couple of years I'm going to be working with large amounts of data and I don't want the CPU to be a bottleneck but I also can't spend too much. I have a laptop with a 1070 and 6700 in it so if I want to game, I can do it on that but I am looking to build a cheap PC so that I wouldn't have to go through the hassle of plugging and unplugging everything in all the time. Typing on my laptop isn't as enjoyable as having a mechanical keyboard is and I think having a PC with a large monitor would add more comfort to doing homework! Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

Thank You,
ZBR
 

JohnnyFootball

GerAlt-Right. Ciriously.
Question:

I’m looking to replace my gaming 750GB SSD with a 1TB M2 drive my question is whether the price premium for PCI-E is really worth the speed increases? On paper PCI-E is much faster, but SATA M2 drives are still quite fast.

I want an M2 because it will create more room in my case so a 2.5” SSD is not an option
 

JohnnyFootball

GerAlt-Right. Ciriously.
Considering that I'm looking to build a pc that is going to be for homework and netflix/media, should I go with the Ryzen 2400g instead of the Ryzen 2200g? I'm a Bioinformatics major and in a couple of years I'm going to be working with large amounts of data and I don't want the CPU to be a bottleneck but I also can't spend too much. I have a laptop with a 1070 and 6700 in it so if I want to game, I can do it on that but I am looking to build a cheap PC so that I wouldn't have to go through the hassle of plugging and unplugging everything in all the time. Typing on my laptop isn't as enjoyable as having a mechanical keyboard is and I think having a PC with a large monitor would add more comfort to doing homework! Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

Thank You,
ZBR
If you’re not planning on gaming then you’re probably better off saving the money and going with a 2200g even though the 2400g offers excellent improvements.
 
So I'm trying to build a PC around the Ryzen 5 2400G APU. I have all my parts selected in a list, but I need to ask: does Windows ever go down in price? Without buying Windows 10, my build is around $500. Windows 10 Home adds $120 to my cost. Is there any legal way to pay less?
 

Ecto311

Member
So I'm trying to build a PC around the Ryzen 5 2400G APU. I have all my parts selected in a list, but I need to ask: does Windows ever go down in price? Without buying Windows 10, my build is around $500. Windows 10 Home adds $120 to my cost. Is there any legal way to pay less?

You don't have to activate windows 10 and it all works but the customization of it. I would give that a go. I did that for my pc a month ago and it just says activate in the lower corner but it all works fine. Also you can remove that a few ways and I did by just joining their beta rings - I get updates more often but they never bug me.
 
You don't have to activate windows 10 and it all works but the customization of it. I would give that a go. I did that for my pc a month ago and it just says activate in the lower corner but it all works fine. Also you can remove that a few ways and I did by just joining their beta rings - I get updates more often but they never bug me.
Really? That's interesting. I was always under the impression one had to activate Windows in order to use it. You learn something new everyday. Thanks!
 

Modu5

Neo Member
Thinking of upgrading my aging 60GB Vertex 2 SSD to a fancy M.2 NVME SSD. Any suggestions? Leaning toward the intel 600p 512GB (maybe 1tb). It'll be an boot drive but would be nice to store some frequently played games on it.

thoughts?
 

JohnnyFootball

GerAlt-Right. Ciriously.
Thinking of upgrading my aging 60GB Vertex 2 SSD to a fancy M.2 NVME SSD. Any suggestions? Leaning toward the intel 600p 512GB (maybe 1tb). It'll be an boot drive but would be nice to store some frequently played games on it.

thoughts?
Not a bad choice. Samsung is always excellent too.
 

Makariel

Member
I concur, Intel is a good choice for SSD, mine is running smooth for a number of years now, no problems yet. I have the Samsung 960 evo and so far it's working great, so can recommend that as well. But I don't think they can beat Intel SSD in terms of their reliability track record.
 

JohnnyFootball

GerAlt-Right. Ciriously.
I concur, Intel is a good choice for SSD, mine is running smooth for a number of years now, no problems yet. I have the Samsung 960 evo and so far it's working great, so can recommend that as well. But I don't think they can beat Intel SSD in terms of their reliability track record.
No idea where you came up with that last part as Samsungs have almost universally been considered the best. Although other makers have caught up in recent years.

Either way, an Intel is fine if that is what you want.
 

Makariel

Member
No idea where you came up with that last part as Samsungs have almost universally been considered the best.
I wouldn't say universally, but they're pretty good, yeah. That with Intel SSD comes from the early days of SSD, when they were showing up on top when it comes to reliability, while drives from crucial, ocz or toshiba would crap themselves after a year or two if you're lucky. I had two ocz drives and one crucial that died within warranty, with the replacement drives dying just after. Then I switched to intel after recommendation from a friend who deals with a lot of SSD, and it never failed. Now I'm getting to the point where my intel drive is getting simply too small, but it didn't have issues for more than 5 years that I have it.
 
Soooo...I want to build a PC. I've never done so before. I know that right now the GPU crisis is making that difficult, so I'm seriously considering building a PC using one of these AMD Ryzen 2400g APUs and 8GB of 3000MHz RAM spending roughly 500-600. That would leave me the option of snagging a moderately beefy GPU down the line when prices stabilize. However, I have about a million concerns.

Can this APU run games at 1080p 30? I'm not necessarily a stickler for higher frame rates, but I can't stand screen tearing. Basically, I'd like to play stuff like PUBG or Fortnite or Rust at 1080p with zero screen tearing. Maybe that's not a realistic expectation. Maybe 720p/30 on High settings?

Or

Should I ditch the APU entirely and go with an MSI GTX 1050 Ti (which I can find right now for about $183) and CPU (I haven't done enough research to know which one yet)? Is there any possible way I can build a machine that can run 1080p 30 on Mid to High with this $183 1050 Ti for around $500 to $600?

Sorry if I'm rambling. I'm very new at all of this.
 
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JohnnyFootball

GerAlt-Right. Ciriously.
Soooo...I want to build a PC. I've never done so before. I know that right now the GPU crisis is making that difficult, so I'm seriously considering building a PC using one of these AMD Ryzen 2400g APUs and 8GB of 3000MHz RAM spending roughly 500-600. That would leave me the option of snagging a moderately beefy GPU down the line when prices stabilize. However, I have about a million concerns.

Can this APU run games at 1080p 30? I'm not necessarily a stickler for higher frame rates, but I can't stand screen tearing. Basically, I'd like to play stuff like PUBG or Fortnite or Rust at 1080p with zero screen tearing. Maybe that's not a realistic expectation. Maybe 720p/30 on High settings?

Or

Should I ditch the APU entirely and go with an MSI GTX 1050 Ti (which I can find right now for about $183) and CPU (I haven't done enough research to know which one yet)? Is there any possible way I can build a machine that can run 1080p 30 on Mid to High with this $183 1050 Ti for around $500 to $600?

Sorry if I'm rambling. I'm very new at all of this.
At this moment in time, I think your best bet is to go with the 2400G and get some high speed RAM to go with it.

Save your money until the GPU market comes back down to earth and get a better one then.
 
At this moment in time, I think your best bet is to go with the 2400G and get some high speed RAM to go with it.

Save your money until the GPU market comes back down to earth and get a better one then.


What would the performance look like? I've seen a bunch of benchmark videos, but they always have vsync turned off. It drives me crazy, but I'm guessing it notably impacts performance?

Also, thanks for replying. I've been thinking about this all day. Basically, I want to gift it to myself for graduation, so I'm looking to purchase the parts in May.
 
Soooo...I want to build a PC. I've never done so before. I know that right now the GPU crisis is making that difficult, so I'm seriously considering building a PC using one of these AMD Ryzen 2400g APUs and 8GB of 3000MHz RAM spending roughly 500-600. That would leave me the option of snagging a moderately beefy GPU down the line when prices stabilize. However, I have about a million concerns.

Can this APU run games at 1080p 30? I'm not necessarily a stickler for higher frame rates, but I can't stand screen tearing. Basically, I'd like to play stuff like PUBG or Fortnite or Rust at 1080p with zero screen tearing. Maybe that's not a realistic expectation. Maybe 720p/30 on High settings?

Or

Should I ditch the APU entirely and go with an MSI GTX 1050 Ti (which I can find right now for about $183) and CPU (I haven't done enough research to know which one yet)? Is there any possible way I can build a machine that can run 1080p 30 on Mid to High with this $183 1050 Ti for around $500 to $600?

Sorry if I'm rambling. I'm very new at all of this.
As great as the 2200G/2400G are, and they really are great. You be better off performance-wise, getting a either prebuilt with a 1050Ti for that same price with a 1050Ti or a refurbished "office" PC with a i5/i7 and putting in a 1050 or 1050Ti in there.

Although, if you do go the APU route, the upside is that you'll have something easily upgradable for the future. Easy to swap out the CPU and add a GPU for better performance.
 

JohnnyFootball

GerAlt-Right. Ciriously.
What would the performance look like? I've seen a bunch of benchmark videos, but they always have vsync turned off. It drives me crazy, but I'm guessing it notably impacts performance?

Also, thanks for replying. I've been thinking about this all day. Basically, I want to gift it to myself for graduation, so I'm looking to purchase the parts in May.
An APU is never going to have the performance of a dedicated graphics card, but this is the best ever and should allow you to do some gaming with quality on par to Xbox One original or even base PS4.
 

Makariel

Member
You be better off performance-wise, getting a either prebuilt with a 1050Ti for that same price with a 1050Ti or a refurbished "office" PC with a i5/i7 and putting in a 1050 or 1050Ti in there.
If Z ZeroMaverick wants to build a PC, getting a pre-built is kinda defeating the purpose, no? This advise depends on your location, where I am currently living prebuilt PCs are laughably overpriced and you're still better off putting it together yourself.

Also, building PCs is just fun to do.
 
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I think I'm going to go the APU route. However, now my concern is the motherboard. Does anyone know if any motherboards support Ryzen 2400g out of the box?
 

JohnnyFootball

GerAlt-Right. Ciriously.
If Z ZeroMaverick wants to build a PC, getting a pre-built is kinda defeating the purpose, no? This advise depends on your location, where I am currently living prebuilt PCs are laughably overpriced and you're still better off putting it together yourself.

Also, building PCs is just fun to do.
With mining causing GPU prices to skyrocket prebuilt can often provide the best deal.
 

Makariel

Member
With mining causing GPU prices to skyrocket prebuilt can often provide the best deal.
I just went to the website of the first local retail chain that came to my mind, looked up an entry level gaming pc with 1050 and 8gb ram, went to partpicker and could put together a machine with 1050ti and 16gb ram for the same price. To reiterate: this advice depends on where you are located, and you can still get good deals putting stuff together yourself.
 

JohnnyFootball

GerAlt-Right. Ciriously.
I just went to the website of the first local retail chain that came to my mind, looked up an entry level gaming pc with 1050 and 8gb ram, went to partpicker and could put together a machine with 1050ti and 16gb ram for the same price. To reiterate: this advice depends on where you are located, and you can still get good deals putting stuff together yourself.
I don’t consider a 1050 to be worthwhile to build a gaming PC around. That’s my opinion but if that’s the best you can do for a video card I’d argue that getting an X1X is a better buy for pure gaming.
 

Makariel

Member
I don’t consider a 1050 to be worthwhile to build a gaming PC around. That’s my opinion but if that’s the best you can do for a video card I’d argue that getting an X1X is a better buy for pure gaming.
A pre-build with 1070 is still more expensive than a selfmade with 1070.

I have a 1080, so I'm not sure why you would suggest me to waste money on a x1x?
 
Pulled the trigger on all the parts. It came out to about $670 (because I ordered everything from Amazon and I forgot, when budgeting, that I have to purchase Windows 10 lol)


Ryzen 5 2400G
Motherboard: AsRock AB350 Pro 4 ATX (hoping it's got the bios update already, but we'll see)
RAM: Corsair LPX 8GB (2x4GB) DDR4 3000MHz
Storage: WD Blue 1TB SATA3/7200RPM (went with an HDD for now to save some money. Will probably update in a few months.)
PSU: EGVA 500 W1, 80+ White
Case: NZXT S340 White


It should all be here by Friday. I am very excited.
 
If Z ZeroMaverick wants to build a PC, getting a pre-built is kinda defeating the purpose, no? This advise depends on your location, where I am currently living prebuilt PCs are laughably overpriced and you're still better off putting it together yourself.

Also, building PCs is just fun to do.

Trust me, I love putting a PC together. Put one together last year, then tore it down 6 months later and rebuilt again as an ITX this year. I just find it's getting harder to recommend building a brand new system when I'm seeing prebuilts go for £699 with a 1070, when to buy a 1070 alone right now costs over 400. Or £499 with a 1060 6Gb. Does depend on where you live, obviously, but still.

Either way, dude's bought his parts now and hope he has fun with the build and is happy with it.

I don’t consider a 1050 to be worthwhile to build a gaming PC around. That’s my opinion but if that’s the best you can do for a video card I’d argue that getting an X1X is a better buy for pure gaming.

You'd be wrong to argue the point, because no matter what way you slice it, the PC and console experiences are very different. That's not to say one is better than the other, that's a subjective matter and not a discussion I care for. For someone that wants a completely custom experience, a choice between using any controller they desire or a M&KB, a choice of what level of performance they want/or are happy with, their choice will be to play on a PC.
 
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I definitely had fun building it. Had a scare when I tried to power everything on for the first time and nothing happened! Turns out the APU wasn't seated properly. After taking everything apart and rebuilding it again (lol) I got it to power up successfully! It was such a great feeling. As I was afraid of, the BIOS on the motherboard I got aren't updated to support Raven Ridge, so now I'm waiting on either AMD support or ASRock support to email me back. Sucks that I'll probably have to wait another week or possibly more to progress to the next step, but at least it powers on and looks cool.


I'm hoping to pop a dGPU into this build sometime later this year. I don't know much about GPU prices or what they should cost, but under normal circumstances, how much should I be looking to pay for a GPU that'll perform better than a PS4 Pro?



Edit: Oh, and in regard to the X1X, I don't think I see the value of paying $500 for a machine whose games are also 100% available on PC.
 
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I definitely had fun building it. Had a scare when I tried to power everything on for the first time and nothing happened! Turns out the APU wasn't seated properly. After taking everything apart and rebuilding it again (lol) I got it to power up successfully! It was such a great feeling. As I was afraid of, the BIOS on the motherboard I got aren't updated to support Raven Ridge, so now I'm waiting on either AMD support or ASRock support to email me back. Sucks that I'll probably have to wait another week or possibly more to progress to the next step, but at least it powers on and looks cool.


I'm hoping to pop a dGPU into this build sometime later this year. I don't know much about GPU prices or what they should cost, but under normal circumstances, how much should I be looking to pay for a GPU that'll perform better than a PS4 Pro?



Edit: Oh, and in regard to the X1X, I don't think I see the value of paying $500 for a machine whose games are also 100% available on PC.

I think MSRP for the 1060 cards was/is around $200/250. That’s more along the lines of X1X level performance, but later this year or early next when Nvidia release their 2000 series, the 2060 should theoretically offer even more performance at around the same price.
 

Ecto311

Member
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076XMH2JT/?tag=neogaf0e-20

Inland Professional 240GB SATA III 6Gb/s 2.5" Internal Solid State Drive (240GB)

Reviews on microcenter for the same drive sold by them look great. For $30 I doubt there is anything comparable. Got one just for steam games I am currently playing. Anyone know the method for pointing to a folder for games and just moving them off other slow drives to this one? I know there is a way but never really put the time in to do it.
 
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