CyberPanda
Banned
Damn son
It's so priceyYeah, if I was in a better spot financially, I'd get one in a heartbeat. It's little brother served me well and after all these years just recently had it's first issue with it's bumper breaking and some stick drift issues. I've had it since launch and holy heck, I used the crap out of that thing. I've been gaming all my life, I know that I would have gone through 3-4 normal controllers over the span of time that I actually used my Elite. Not to mention the paddles... Can't go back to having no paddles.
Yep, and my biggest gripe with the first one was the short warranty. I don't know if that's changed but man that was dumb for something so expensive that physically gets used a lot. I guarantee more people would feel safer investing in one if it had a better warranty.It's so pricey
How's the battery life? Did you have eneloops for the original to compare?It is a good step up from the v1. I have both and vastly prefer the way the paddles feel on the v2. Its worth it if you can afford it, every other controller feels like a cheap toy compared to it.
It lasts days. I’ve actually never got the low battery warning, every three days or so I throw it in its case and it charges. I am slightly concerned about battery degradation over time though.How's the battery life? Did you have eneloops for the original to compare?
Lack of AA batteries for eneloops was my biggest fear with a V2 and they went and made that fear come true. So now I'm wondering how it compares.
So you never tried eneloops with your V1? That's... an odd choice...It lasts days. I’ve actually never got the low battery warning, every three days or so I throw it in its case and it charges. I am slightly concerned about battery degradation over time though.
I had the play and charge in the v1 and charged it about equally as often, except with the play and charge it was because I had to.
I don’t own any eneloops.So you never tried eneloops with your V1? That's... an odd choice...
Man, you missed out.I don’t own any eneloops.
Damn son
Reeeeeehow? I thought no one buys xbox stuff?? I thought xbox is dead??
Just from a quick search I found this. It's from 2018 mind you.how? I thought no one buys xbox stuff?? I thought xbox is dead??
How's the battery life? Did you have eneloops for the original to compare?
Lack of AA batteries for eneloops was my biggest fear with a V2 and they went and made that fear come true. So now I'm wondering how it compares.
You can fix the drift. I don't 3 PS4 controllers. I'm guessing XBox will be the same... and after all these years just recently had it's first issue with it's bumper breaking and some stick drift issues.
Well, that makes me feel a bit better then. Now to see if the charge degrades over time and how that charts. But Lord willing I will have one by the time people start giving their data on that lol. Can you tell me if the internal battery looks like it is easily replaceable? Or is it a situation where you would have to open up the controller? If it's the latter, I wish MS would have a system in place where you could send your controller in for at least one free battery replacement. Just, something since these are so expensive and people are expecting them to last them for years upon years.I can answer that for you. I use Eneloops with my Series 1 controller and I still think it's a no-brainer for any controller, or anything at all, that uses AAs (seriously, you will leave these batteries to your grandchildren in your will because they will likely outlive you). I keep the Series 1 around as a backup or to use with the Xbone and haven't touched it since I plugged in the Series 2 because it's never been fully discharged and I rarely use the Xbone anymore. I used to swap the Eneloops once or twice a week (I use the 2100 cycle count white Eneloops, not the 500 cycle count higher capacity black Eneloops), but realistically think I was getting about 25 hours on a fresh set.
I think the 40 hours number for the Series 2 is off, I think that was a low-ball number to temper expectations.
I originally was charging my V2 on Fridays and Tuesdays on a schedule. Since the charger is in the case, it just meant putting the controller in the case twice a week. I never got the 25% indicator so I tried just Fridays. I still never get the orange indicator so I decided to let it go until I did. I've gone well over a week without charging on multiple occasions. As an example, I started playing The Witcher 3 in early January and have put 180 hours into the game, I've played other games too, but I can track that game's hours. Since January 1st I've charged the controller four times. Only 3 of those times the controller was showing the 25% indicator light. Imagining I've only played TW3, I've been going about 45 hours between charges, but I haven't been fully discharging the battery and I have been playing other games meaning 45 hours is a low estimate.
Keep in mind, I'm playing on PC primarily, so I don't plug a headset into the controller which will drain it faster, but I do play with rumble set to full blast and I play a lot of racing games where the trigger motors basically never stop.
You have to open the controller. There’s no easy access to the battery.Well, that makes me feel a bit better then. Now to see if the charge degrades over time and how that charts. But Lord willing I will have one by the time people start giving their data on that lol. Can you tell me if the internal battery looks like it is easily replaceable? Or is it a situation where you would have to open up the controller? If it's the latter, I wish MS would have a system in place where you could send your controller in for at least one free battery replacement. Just, something since these are so expensive and people are expecting them to last them for years upon years.
Well, that makes me feel a bit better then. Now to see if the charge degrades over time and how that charts. But Lord willing I will have one by the time people start giving their data on that lol. Can you tell me if the internal battery looks like it is easily replaceable? Or is it a situation where you would have to open up the controller? If it's the latter, I wish MS would have a system in place where you could send your controller in for at least one free battery replacement. Just, something since these are so expensive and people are expecting them to last them for years upon years.
Pchow? I thought no one buys xbox stuff?? I thought xbox is dead??
I nearly dropped cash on one but they made a fatal mistake... it doesn’t come in white. And I love my controllers to be white
Bugger
I'm interested in getting one but I bet the minute I get it they would announce a white edition which is what I really want to match up with my PC Build.
The controller is $159 for Amazon Prime members at the moment, btw.
Do the triggers, bumpers, A,B, X and Y buttons feel better quality than the standard controller. I'm interested in one of these but never held one including the model 1.
I see, Thanks. I think I'm gonna take advantage of the Amazon Prime discount then.I don't think there will be a white version of the Series 2 based on it's design changes over the Series 1.
The high-wear coating they use can only come in black. They use this same coating on their high-end Surface accessories, and you'll also find it on a lot of PC gaming peripherals. Carbon black is used in the rubberized coating on the controller which aids in durability as does it's chemical bond to the plastic, but also limits color choices (I'm an industrial painter by trade, and I've never sprayed a high-wear rubberized coating that wasn't black) which is the same reason car tires only come in black. Rubber is naturally an off-white (the white part of whitewall tires is the color of natural rubber), but it's not really white, more of a bone color and it tends to yellow over time. This is potentially part of the reason the grey rubber grips on the Series 1 controllers were prone to failure where the white version, with it's black grips was not.
The only option they have is to make a white plastic version like they did with the Series 1, but then they would have to either glue on grips again which would rquire a new mold, or just forego rubberized grips. With the new shell design glue-on grips would be very hard to implement reliably as there is a very sharp crease on the underside of the handles where there used to be a seam.
That’s quite impressive. I’m thinking of picking one up for the X and my PC. I assume any bluetooth dongle will be fine for PC?
So I guess that means the stock controllers for other systems are better quality since the xbox being the weakest selling system sells the most non stock controllers. So it's either use junk or pay a lot for something good.
I went in Game, asked to have a hold of a series 2 and they said they couldn't open a box, which I understand. I asked to have a hold of the display model which was in a glass case, they said it was a series 1, it wasn't. But even if it was I would have offered to the customer a feel of that one. Well they lost a sale as I was 90% buying one when I walked through the doors.I don't think there will be a white version of the Series 2 based on it's design changes over the Series 1.
The high-wear coating they use can only come in black. They use this same coating on their high-end Surface accessories, and you'll also find it on a lot of PC gaming peripherals. Carbon black is used in the rubberized coating on the controller which aids in durability as does it's chemical bond to the plastic, but also limits color choices (I'm an industrial painter by trade, and I've never sprayed a high-wear rubberized coating that wasn't black) which is the same reason car tires only come in black. Rubber is naturally an off-white (the white part of whitewall tires is the color of natural rubber), but it's not really white, more of a bone color and it tends to yellow over time. This is potentially part of the reason the grey rubber grips on the Series 1 controllers were prone to failure where the white version, with it's black grips was not.
The only option they have is to make a white plastic version like they did with the Series 1, but then they would have to either glue on grips again which would rquire a new mold, or just forego rubberized grips. With the new shell design glue-on grips would be very hard to implement reliably as there is a very sharp crease on the underside of the handles where there used to be a seam.
The ABXY buttons share parts with the standard controller (outside the color). The membrane between the board and the buttons is the same as in all other Xbox One controllers. I have the Series 1, 2, S, and an OG controller in front of me and they all feel identical, only my OG Xbone controller and Series 1 Elite feel different, squishier, but they both have thousands of hours on them.
The triggers feel the same save for they have "landing pads" built into the board but generally feel the same. The trigger mechanism themselves are new parts, with a grid pattern frame making them more solid than the hollow S controller versions and they also have a textured pattern. The bumpers are derived from the S controller and are no longer painted with the metallic silver coating that caused the Series 1 bumpers to become brittle and prone to crack which is an improvement, but they feel the same as they are basically the same mechanism with small revisions. The new gunmetal coating has a satin finish that feels very smooth though.
If you have a local gaming store that isn't a big box, try popping in and asking if any of them have one you can hold.