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[CyberPanda]

Damn son

 

[VlaudTheImpaler]

Yeah, if I was in a better spot financially, I'd get one in a heartbeat. It's little brother served me well and after all these years just recently had it's first issue with it's bumper breaking and some stick drift issues. I've had it since launch and holy heck, I used the crap out of that thing. I've been gaming all my life, I know that I would have gone through 3-4 normal controllers over the span of time that I actually used my Elite. Not to mention the paddles... Can't go back to having no paddles.

 

[CyberPanda]

Yeah, if I was in a better spot financially, I'd get one in a heartbeat. It's little brother served me well and after all these years just recently had it's first issue with it's bumper breaking and some stick drift issues. I've had it since launch and holy heck, I used the crap out of that thing. I've been gaming all my life, I know that I would have gone through 3-4 normal controllers over the span of time that I actually used my Elite. Not to mention the paddles... Can't go back to having no paddles.

It's so pricey

 

[GymWolf]

100 milions to develop that thing are starting to show resaults.

 

[NOLA_Gaffer]

That's bonkers to me; I couldn't imagine dropping $180 on a single controller.

Hell, I have a hard time swallowing the $50/$60 sale price of modern controllers.

 

[Kagey K]

It is a good step up from the v1. I have both and vastly prefer the way the paddles feel on the v2. Its worth it if you can afford it, every other controller feels like a cheap toy compared to it.

 

[VlaudTheImpaler]

It's so pricey

Yep, and my biggest gripe with the first one was the short warranty. I don't know if that's changed but man that was dumb for something so expensive that physically gets used a lot. I guarantee more people would feel safer investing in one if it had a better warranty.

 

[VlaudTheImpaler]

It is a good step up from the v1. I have both and vastly prefer the way the paddles feel on the v2. Its worth it if you can afford it, every other controller feels like a cheap toy compared to it.

How's the battery life? Did you have eneloops for the original to compare?

Lack of AA batteries for eneloops was my biggest fear with a V2 and they went and made that fear come true. So now I'm wondering how it compares.

 

[Kagey K]

How's the battery life? Did you have eneloops for the original to compare?

Lack of AA batteries for eneloops was my biggest fear with a V2 and they went and made that fear come true. So now I'm wondering how it compares.

It lasts days. I’ve actually never got the low battery warning, every three days or so I throw it in its case and it charges. I am slightly concerned about battery degradation over time though.

I had the play and charge in the v1 and charged it about equally as often, except with the play and charge it was because I had to.

 

[VlaudTheImpaler]

It lasts days. I’ve actually never got the low battery warning, every three days or so I throw it in its case and it charges. I am slightly concerned about battery degradation over time though.

I had the play and charge in the v1 and charged it about equally as often, except with the play and charge it was because I had to.

So you never tried eneloops with your V1? That's... an odd choice...

 

[Kagey K]

So you never tried eneloops with your V1? That's... an odd choice...

I don’t own any eneloops.

 

[VlaudTheImpaler]

I don’t own any eneloops.

Man, you missed out.

 

[SimonGosejohann]

Damn son

how? I thought no one buys xbox stuff?? I thought xbox is dead??

 

[CyberPanda]

how? I thought no one buys xbox stuff?? I thought xbox is dead??

Reeeeee

 

[VlaudTheImpaler]

how? I thought no one buys xbox stuff?? I thought xbox is dead??

Just from a quick search I found this. It's from 2018 mind you.

PC players love them some correctly laid out sticks. So I wouldn't take it as a direct correlation to the success of xbox is all I'm saying.

Spoiler

Xbox is doing just fine btw.

 

[BusierDonkey]

How's the battery life? Did you have eneloops for the original to compare?

Lack of AA batteries for eneloops was my biggest fear with a V2 and they went and made that fear come true. So now I'm wondering how it compares.

I can answer that for you. I use Eneloops with my Series 1 controller and I still think it's a no-brainer for any controller, or anything at all, that uses AAs (seriously, you will leave these batteries to your grandchildren in your will because they will likely outlive you). I keep the Series 1 around as a backup or to use with the Xbone and haven't touched it since I plugged in the Series 2 because it's never been fully discharged and I rarely use the Xbone anymore. I used to swap the Eneloops once or twice a week (I use the 2100 cycle count white Eneloops, not the 500 cycle count higher capacity black Eneloops), but realistically think I was getting about 25 hours on a fresh set.

I think the 40 hours number for the Series 2 is off, I think that was a low-ball number to temper expectations.

I originally was charging my V2 on Fridays and Tuesdays on a schedule. Since the charger is in the case, it just meant putting the controller in the case twice a week. I never got the 25% indicator so I tried just Fridays. I still never get the orange indicator so I decided to let it go until I did. I've gone well over a week without charging on multiple occasions. As an example, I started playing The Witcher 3 in early January and have put 180 hours into the game, I've played other games too, but I can track that game's hours. Since January 1st I've charged the controller four times. Only 3 of those times the controller was showing the 25% indicator light. Imagining I've only played TW3, I've been going about 45 hours between charges, but I haven't been fully discharging the battery and I have been playing other games meaning 45 hours is a low estimate.

Keep in mind, I'm playing on PC primarily, so I don't plug a headset into the controller which will drain it faster, but I do play with rumble set to full blast and I play a lot of racing games where the trigger motors basically never stop.

 

[reconminicon]

All those PC gamers wanting in on the console action

 

[reconminicon]

.. and after all these years just recently had it's first issue with it's bumper breaking and some stick drift issues.

You can fix the drift. I don't 3 PS4 controllers. I'm guessing XBox will be the same.

 

[VlaudTheImpaler]

I can answer that for you. I use Eneloops with my Series 1 controller and I still think it's a no-brainer for any controller, or anything at all, that uses AAs (seriously, you will leave these batteries to your grandchildren in your will because they will likely outlive you). I keep the Series 1 around as a backup or to use with the Xbone and haven't touched it since I plugged in the Series 2 because it's never been fully discharged and I rarely use the Xbone anymore. I used to swap the Eneloops once or twice a week (I use the 2100 cycle count white Eneloops, not the 500 cycle count higher capacity black Eneloops), but realistically think I was getting about 25 hours on a fresh set.

I think the 40 hours number for the Series 2 is off, I think that was a low-ball number to temper expectations.

I originally was charging my V2 on Fridays and Tuesdays on a schedule. Since the charger is in the case, it just meant putting the controller in the case twice a week. I never got the 25% indicator so I tried just Fridays. I still never get the orange indicator so I decided to let it go until I did. I've gone well over a week without charging on multiple occasions. As an example, I started playing The Witcher 3 in early January and have put 180 hours into the game, I've played other games too, but I can track that game's hours. Since January 1st I've charged the controller four times. Only 3 of those times the controller was showing the 25% indicator light. Imagining I've only played TW3, I've been going about 45 hours between charges, but I haven't been fully discharging the battery and I have been playing other games meaning 45 hours is a low estimate.

Keep in mind, I'm playing on PC primarily, so I don't plug a headset into the controller which will drain it faster, but I do play with rumble set to full blast and I play a lot of racing games where the trigger motors basically never stop.

Well, that makes me feel a bit better then. Now to see if the charge degrades over time and how that charts. But Lord willing I will have one by the time people start giving their data on that lol. Can you tell me if the internal battery looks like it is easily replaceable? Or is it a situation where you would have to open up the controller? If it's the latter, I wish MS would have a system in place where you could send your controller in for at least one free battery replacement. Just, something since these are so expensive and people are expecting them to last them for years upon years.

 

[Kagey K]

Well, that makes me feel a bit better then. Now to see if the charge degrades over time and how that charts. But Lord willing I will have one by the time people start giving their data on that lol. Can you tell me if the internal battery looks like it is easily replaceable? Or is it a situation where you would have to open up the controller? If it's the latter, I wish MS would have a system in place where you could send your controller in for at least one free battery replacement. Just, something since these are so expensive and people are expecting them to last them for years upon years.

You have to open the controller. There’s no easy access to the battery.

 

[BusierDonkey]

Well, that makes me feel a bit better then. Now to see if the charge degrades over time and how that charts. But Lord willing I will have one by the time people start giving their data on that lol. Can you tell me if the internal battery looks like it is easily replaceable? Or is it a situation where you would have to open up the controller? If it's the latter, I wish MS would have a system in place where you could send your controller in for at least one free battery replacement. Just, something since these are so expensive and people are expecting them to last them for years upon years.

You have to open the controller, but it's not too bad. You can pop the faceplate with a parts separator, then undo a few screws which allows you to remove the inner frame which exposes the battery. The Series 2 was clearly designed for repair over disposal/replacement as it uses contact pads in place of ribbon cables and plug/socket connections. This facilitates taking the controller apart often for cleaning and maintenance without causing any wear to the parts inside, showing a clear intent for the controller to last a long time.

I'd say if you have a good mind for electronics replacing the battery would easily take under 10 minutes. I can get to it in under 2 minutes without rushing using just the parts separator and a screwdriver.

I can't vouch for longevity or whether the batteries will maintain capacity over a long period, but even if this lithium battery was good for just 500 charges like the black Eneloops, charging it weekly would mean almost 10 years before they batteries lose their capacitance. That doesn't mean non-functional, it just means the capacitance has gone below an industry standard where the batteries are considered expired.

The truth is, my Elite series 2 will probably be in a box in the closet with all my old controllers going back to the NES years before the batteries actually fully die.

 

[Gavin Stevens]

I nearly dropped cash on one but they made a fatal mistake... it doesn’t come in white. And I love my controllers to be white

Bugger

 

[SLB1904]

how? I thought no one buys xbox stuff?? I thought xbox is dead??

Pc

 

[Shakka43]

I'm interested in getting one but I bet the minute I get it they would announce a white edition which is what I really want to match up with my PC Build.

The controller is $159 for Amazon Prime members at the moment, btw.

 

[Bogroll]

Do the triggers, bumpers, A,B, X and Y buttons feel better quality than the standard controller. I'm interested in one of these but never held one including the model 1.

 

[TaySan]

I bought one at launch and I love the controller. Not surprised at all it is selling well even at it's price.

 

[BusierDonkey]

I nearly dropped cash on one but they made a fatal mistake... it doesn’t come in white. And I love my controllers to be white

Bugger

I'm interested in getting one but I bet the minute I get it they would announce a white edition which is what I really want to match up with my PC Build.

The controller is $159 for Amazon Prime members at the moment, btw.

I don't think there will be a white version of the Series 2 based on it's design changes over the Series 1.

The high-wear coating they use can only come in black. They use this same coating on their high-end Surface accessories, and you'll also find it on a lot of PC gaming peripherals. Carbon black is used in the rubberized coating on the controller which aids in durability as does it's chemical bond to the plastic, but also limits color choices (I'm an industrial painter by trade, and I've never sprayed a high-wear rubberized coating that wasn't black) which is the same reason car tires only come in black. Rubber is naturally an off-white (the white part of whitewall tires is the color of natural rubber), but it's not really white, more of a bone color and it tends to yellow over time. This is potentially part of the reason the grey rubber grips on the Series 1 controllers were prone to failure where the white version, with it's black grips was not.

The only option they have is to make a white plastic version like they did with the Series 1, but then they would have to either glue on grips again which would rquire a new mold, or just forego rubberized grips. With the new shell design glue-on grips would be very hard to implement reliably as there is a very sharp crease on the underside of the handles where there used to be a seam.

Do the triggers, bumpers, A,B, X and Y buttons feel better quality than the standard controller. I'm interested in one of these but never held one including the model 1.

The ABXY buttons share parts with the standard controller (outside the color). The membrane between the board and the buttons is the same as in all other Xbox One controllers. I have the Series 1, 2, S, and an OG controller in front of me and they all feel identical, only my OG Xbone controller and Series 1 Elite feel different, squishier, but they both have thousands of hours on them.

The triggers feel the same save for they have "landing pads" built into the board but generally feel the same. The trigger mechanism themselves are new parts, with a grid pattern frame making them more solid than the hollow S controller versions and they also have a textured pattern. The bumpers are derived from the S controller and are no longer painted with the metallic silver coating that caused the Series 1 bumpers to become brittle and prone to crack which is an improvement, but they feel the same as they are basically the same mechanism with small revisions. The new gunmetal coating has a satin finish that feels very smooth though.

If you have a local gaming store that isn't a big box, try popping in and asking if any of them have one you can hold.

 

[Shakka43]

I don't think there will be a white version of the Series 2 based on it's design changes over the Series 1.

The high-wear coating they use can only come in black. They use this same coating on their high-end Surface accessories, and you'll also find it on a lot of PC gaming peripherals. Carbon black is used in the rubberized coating on the controller which aids in durability as does it's chemical bond to the plastic, but also limits color choices (I'm an industrial painter by trade, and I've never sprayed a high-wear rubberized coating that wasn't black) which is the same reason car tires only come in black. Rubber is naturally an off-white (the white part of whitewall tires is the color of natural rubber), but it's not really white, more of a bone color and it tends to yellow over time. This is potentially part of the reason the grey rubber grips on the Series 1 controllers were prone to failure where the white version, with it's black grips was not.

The only option they have is to make a white plastic version like they did with the Series 1, but then they would have to either glue on grips again which would rquire a new mold, or just forego rubberized grips. With the new shell design glue-on grips would be very hard to implement reliably as there is a very sharp crease on the underside of the handles where there used to be a seam.

I see, Thanks. I think I'm gonna take advantage of the Amazon Prime discount then.

 

[Flintty]

That’s quite impressive. I’m thinking of picking one up for the X and my PC. I assume any bluetooth dongle will be fine for PC?

 

[BusierDonkey]

That’s quite impressive. I’m thinking of picking one up for the X and my PC. I assume any bluetooth dongle will be fine for PC?

Your PC will pick it up like any other Bluetooth device. If you have no Bluetooth capability built-in you can still plug it in with a USB cable and use it as a wired controller, or if you used a wireless dongle for the Series 1/OG Xbone controllers, it will also work with the new controller.

 

[Gargus]

So I guess that means the stock controllers for other systems are better quality since the xbox being the weakest selling system sells the most non stock controllers. So it's either use junk or pay a lot for something good.

 

[BusierDonkey]

So I guess that means the stock controllers for other systems are better quality since the xbox being the weakest selling system sells the most non stock controllers. So it's either use junk or pay a lot for something good.

Are you serious?

The Series 2 sees a lot of sales as a PC controller, and is a legitimate (though pricey) upgrade from the stock controller. The current S controller is an excellent controller and it well made, but doesn't offer the added feature set the Elite controllers do. I have a DS4 and many Joycons and can confidently say the Xbone controller is more well-made than either of them. The Series 2 selling well has nothing to do with the quality of the packaged controllers.

 

[Bogroll]

I don't think there will be a white version of the Series 2 based on it's design changes over the Series 1.

The high-wear coating they use can only come in black. They use this same coating on their high-end Surface accessories, and you'll also find it on a lot of PC gaming peripherals. Carbon black is used in the rubberized coating on the controller which aids in durability as does it's chemical bond to the plastic, but also limits color choices (I'm an industrial painter by trade, and I've never sprayed a high-wear rubberized coating that wasn't black) which is the same reason car tires only come in black. Rubber is naturally an off-white (the white part of whitewall tires is the color of natural rubber), but it's not really white, more of a bone color and it tends to yellow over time. This is potentially part of the reason the grey rubber grips on the Series 1 controllers were prone to failure where the white version, with it's black grips was not.

The only option they have is to make a white plastic version like they did with the Series 1, but then they would have to either glue on grips again which would rquire a new mold, or just forego rubberized grips. With the new shell design glue-on grips would be very hard to implement reliably as there is a very sharp crease on the underside of the handles where there used to be a seam.



The ABXY buttons share parts with the standard controller (outside the color). The membrane between the board and the buttons is the same as in all other Xbox One controllers. I have the Series 1, 2, S, and an OG controller in front of me and they all feel identical, only my OG Xbone controller and Series 1 Elite feel different, squishier, but they both have thousands of hours on them.

The triggers feel the same save for they have "landing pads" built into the board but generally feel the same. The trigger mechanism themselves are new parts, with a grid pattern frame making them more solid than the hollow S controller versions and they also have a textured pattern. The bumpers are derived from the S controller and are no longer painted with the metallic silver coating that caused the Series 1 bumpers to become brittle and prone to crack which is an improvement, but they feel the same as they are basically the same mechanism with small revisions. The new gunmetal coating has a satin finish that feels very smooth though.

If you have a local gaming store that isn't a big box, try popping in and asking if any of them have one you can hold.

I went in Game, asked to have a hold of a series 2 and they said they couldn't open a box, which I understand. I asked to have a hold of the display model which was in a glass case, they said it was a series 1, it wasn't. But even if it was I would have offered to the customer a feel of that one. Well they lost a sale as I was 90% buying one when I walked through the doors.
Is it like jumping out of a French car into a German car quality and feel wise as a comparison between a standard controller and elite?

 

[SleepDoctor]

I got the 1st one for $60 through a special at best buy awhile back and the trigger got fucked up. I'll be damned if imma pay almost $200 for another one.

The controller felt great till the trigger broke tho lol.

 

[Shakka43]

Got the controller

Not bad, but not $170 worth either. The A button doesn't always register hopefully rubbing a little alcohol as I read on Reddit will fix it, if not I will have to return it.