It can be 3-4X faster than a regular SSD. Not really noticeable unless you are benchmarking and/or need a huge amount of writes. And, yes, I am using it as the OS drive. Just make sure you have a M.2 slot on your MB.
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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 2. Read the OP. Rocking 2500K's until HBM2 and beyond.
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It can be 3-4X faster than a regular SSD. Not really noticeable unless you are benchmarking and/or need a huge amount of writes. And, yes, I am using it as the OS drive. Just make sure you have a M.2 slot on your MB.
Ah cool thanks. I'm looking into a new build and I started researching around and saw that and wondered if it was mainly meant as a secondary drive (some computer sites like Cyberpower has it more optional with the first sata drive being a mandatory one so that's why I asked)
Would any slot load drive fit? I assume the only problem would be the eject button not lining up.
CybernatonEvolution
Member
I just bought an Asus z97-A Motherboard and a new PSU as my old Asrock Z87 pro4 died; the old RM 650 PSU was probably the culprit (showed double votages using a Multimeter).
I considered going with a new z170 Skylake motherboard and get an i7 6700k, but I already have an i7 4770k (I don't know if it got fried alongside the motherboard). I don't want to pay +500$ just as a simple fix, and I am already upgrading to a GTX 1080.
I wish I didn't clean that damn stupid GTX 780. I reapplied some thermal paste and then the whole PC didn't power on; that stupid PSU either messed up everything or I ruined the motherboard somehow. Now I am practicality making a new PC build in just two years my CPU turns out to be dead.
Anyway, how are things going with the new Skylake chips? I read that they are 20% faster but it is negligible in gaming; z97 and a high-end Haswell cpu are enough for a couple of years. Is it really the case now considering we have DX12?
I considered going with a new z170 Skylake motherboard and get an i7 6700k, but I already have an i7 4770k (I don't know if it got fried alongside the motherboard). I don't want to pay +500$ just as a simple fix, and I am already upgrading to a GTX 1080.
I wish I didn't clean that damn stupid GTX 780. I reapplied some thermal paste and then the whole PC didn't power on; that stupid PSU either messed up everything or I ruined the motherboard somehow. Now I am practicality making a new PC build in just two years my CPU turns out to be dead.
Anyway, how are things going with the new Skylake chips? I read that they are 20% faster but it is negligible in gaming; z97 and a high-end Haswell cpu are enough for a couple of years. Is it really the case now considering we have DX12?
CybernatonEvolution
Member
Edit: Welp. I thought it was a different topic.
You need to be able to take the bezel off and there are two thicknesses 12.7mm and 9.5mm. I *think* its 12.7 but you would need to verify.
Apoleptica
Banned
Could someone recommend me a good, reasonably priced psu (around $100 or less). I'm planning on a i7 6700k build with a GTX 1070, possibly 1080 in the summer. I want to be able to overclock both the cpu and gpu, want the psu to be as quiet as possible, and be usable with future builds in years to come.
Is this corsair RM750X a good deal / fit what I need? Seems to be on sale atm.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139142&ignorebbr=1
Thanks.
ps. Im using a corsair 400q case.
Is this corsair RM750X a good deal / fit what I need? Seems to be on sale atm.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139142&ignorebbr=1
Thanks.
ps. Im using a corsair 400q case.
The power supply you linked to is more than sufficient for your PC needs. It's a good deal for an excellent modular power supply made by Corsair. In case you want to add something to your PC that requires you to feed it a lot of watts (SLI/Crossfire for example), this power supply would be ready to provide that already (kinda a future proof).
Apoleptica
Banned
Woah that seems like an awesome deal based on the original price, and platinum seems to be better than gold lol. Thanks. Though that mail in rebate is from May 3rd to the 11th (today), so seems like I've just missed that opportunity. Looks like it's worth buying anyway though.
Thanks.
edit: ended up going with the corsair. It has a smoother fan ramp up rate and apparently runs much quieter than the evga.
Filth
Member
would my pc benefit from doing this? or should I just stick to dedicated 1080?
Thanks! I'll look into it.
blitzkrieg184
Neo Member
I've done some research and picked out some stuff for my first build. Blowing past my initial budget but we'll see I guess, might just save up a bit and spoil myself. Here's what I came up with. Does everything look okay to you Gaf and is there anything missing that I would need? Because I have friggin no idea what I'm doing. haha 
I'll probably keep an eye out for sales and whatnot before I buy anything though.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i3-6100 3.7GHz Dual-Core Processor ($146.25 @ shopRBC)
Thermal Compound: Arctic Silver 5 High-Density Polysynthetic Silver 3.5g Thermal Paste ($5.98 @ DirectCanada)
Motherboard: MSI B150M MORTAR Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($105.88 @ Amazon Canada)
Memory: Kingston HyperX Fury Black 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($45.98 @ DirectCanada)
Storage: Kingston HyperX Fury 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($54.01 @ DirectCanada)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($60.15 @ Vuugo)
Video Card: MSI Radeon R9 380 4GB Video Card ($239.99 @ NCIX)
Case: Thermaltake Versa H15 MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($34.99 @ NCIX)
Power Supply: EVGA 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($46.99 @ NCIX)
Monitor: Asus VS239H-P 23.0" Monitor ($173.25 @ Vuugo)
Keyboard: Thermaltake POSEIDON Z Wired Gaming Keyboard ($76.50 @ Vuugo)
Mouse: Logitech G402 Wired Optical Mouse ($70.00 @ Amazon Canada)
Total: $1059.97
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-05-12 01:43 EDT-0400
Should I get an optical drive or no?
I'll probably keep an eye out for sales and whatnot before I buy anything though. PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i3-6100 3.7GHz Dual-Core Processor ($146.25 @ shopRBC)
Thermal Compound: Arctic Silver 5 High-Density Polysynthetic Silver 3.5g Thermal Paste ($5.98 @ DirectCanada)
Motherboard: MSI B150M MORTAR Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($105.88 @ Amazon Canada)
Memory: Kingston HyperX Fury Black 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($45.98 @ DirectCanada)
Storage: Kingston HyperX Fury 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($54.01 @ DirectCanada)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($60.15 @ Vuugo)
Video Card: MSI Radeon R9 380 4GB Video Card ($239.99 @ NCIX)
Case: Thermaltake Versa H15 MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($34.99 @ NCIX)
Power Supply: EVGA 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($46.99 @ NCIX)
Monitor: Asus VS239H-P 23.0" Monitor ($173.25 @ Vuugo)
Keyboard: Thermaltake POSEIDON Z Wired Gaming Keyboard ($76.50 @ Vuugo)
Mouse: Logitech G402 Wired Optical Mouse ($70.00 @ Amazon Canada)
Total: $1059.97
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-05-12 01:43 EDT-0400
Should I get an optical drive or no?
Sucks. I have a Hero VIII and a ROG Swift.
But I just happen to live in America. #1 (That's hashtag "one" to you!)
ohyouagain
Member
My GTX 970 is still packed, unused, and I could resell it in the blink of an eye, but... I need benchmarks of the 1070 first.
GIVE IT TO ME
GIVE IT TO ME
What CPU cooler?
200
ohyouagain
Member
About what I expect for my GTX 970 Strix.
May 3rd to 11th purchase date so if you buy before midnight you're good. If you miss it, it's $99.99ish on Amazon too so grab it there for free shipping.
Optical Drive is unnecessary as is the thermal paste. I'd probably just grab a cheaper mouse and keyboard for now and put that money towards a larger SSD. You can also grab a GTX 970 for like $250 off Craigslist or Kijiji maybe now as people start trying to sell their old cards for a 1070 or 1080.I've done some research and picked out some stuff for my first build. Blowing past my initial budget but we'll see I guess, might just save up a bit and spoil myself. Here's what I came up with. Does everything look okay to you Gaf and is there anything missing that I would need? Because I have friggin no idea what I'm doing. haha
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i3-6100 3.7GHz Dual-Core Processor ($146.25 @ shopRBC)
Thermal Compound: Arctic Silver 5 High-Density Polysynthetic Silver 3.5g Thermal Paste ($5.98 @ DirectCanada)
Motherboard: MSI B150M MORTAR Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($105.88 @ Amazon Canada)
Memory: Kingston HyperX Fury Black 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($45.98 @ DirectCanada)
Storage: Kingston HyperX Fury 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($54.01 @ DirectCanada)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($60.15 @ Vuugo)
Video Card: MSI Radeon R9 380 4GB Video Card ($239.99 @ NCIX)
Case: Thermaltake Versa H15 MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($34.99 @ NCIX)
Power Supply: EVGA 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($46.99 @ NCIX)
Monitor: Asus VS239H-P 23.0" Monitor ($173.25 @ Vuugo)
Keyboard: Thermaltake POSEIDON Z Wired Gaming Keyboard ($76.50 @ Vuugo)
Mouse: Logitech G402 Wired Optical Mouse ($70.00 @ Amazon Canada)
Total: $1059.97
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-05-12 01:43 EDT-0400
Should I get an optical drive or no?
I tried to see what basically the cheapest thing I could get on PC Part Picker were and got this:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i3-6100 3.7GHz Dual-Core Processor ($146.25 @ shopRBC)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-H110M-A Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($58.55 @ Amazon Canada)
Memory: Kingston 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($33.30 @ Amazon Canada)
Storage: Crucial BX200 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($83.98 @ DirectCanada)
Storage: Toshiba 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($59.00 @ Vuugo)
Case: Rosewill SRM-01 MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($41.99 @ Newegg Canada)
Power Supply: EVGA 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($46.99 @ NCIX)
Total: $470.06
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-05-12 02:47 EDT-0400
btw if you aren't comfortable building on your own I highly recommend using NCIX, price matching everything, and having them build it for you for $50.
Wibblewozzer
Member
I posted a day or two about my computer rebooting mid-game and then right after restarting it'll always reboot when I try to load back into whatever I was playing. In this case it's Guild Wars 2 and without fail I can log-in and see my characters but once it finishes loading up the world it just reboots with no warning.
I'm starting to think it might be my PSU failing which could also be why my external hard drive had trouble being recognized after some of these resets. I thought it might have been hard drive failure but I've moved games off the main drive I use and put Guild Wars 2 on my SSD and it's still doing it after I was able to play for around 20 minutes tonight. The same thing happened last night where after around 20 minutes it rebooted and then just constantly reboots upon loading into the world.
What's the best way to check if the PSU is starting to fail? Or is there something else I should consider? It's just weird that each night after work it seems to be fine for roughly 20 minutes before it starts crashing and then will always cause the reboots when I load into the game. But then tomorrow night I'm sure it'll let me start up for 20 minutes again before falling apart. I've checked temps and everything remains quite low so I don't think that's the issue.
I'm starting to think it might be my PSU failing which could also be why my external hard drive had trouble being recognized after some of these resets. I thought it might have been hard drive failure but I've moved games off the main drive I use and put Guild Wars 2 on my SSD and it's still doing it after I was able to play for around 20 minutes tonight. The same thing happened last night where after around 20 minutes it rebooted and then just constantly reboots upon loading into the world.
What's the best way to check if the PSU is starting to fail? Or is there something else I should consider? It's just weird that each night after work it seems to be fine for roughly 20 minutes before it starts crashing and then will always cause the reboots when I load into the game. But then tomorrow night I'm sure it'll let me start up for 20 minutes again before falling apart. I've checked temps and everything remains quite low so I don't think that's the issue.
one is haswell and one is skylake? depends on your cpu choise I suppose!
GlamFM
Banned
Shit - I have no idea what that means!
Which one is better?
Have not decided on a CPU yet, but I´m aiming for a 2.000 no bullshit build.
hooijdonk17
Member
All the latest buzz about Polaris 10 and GTX 1080 went over my head.. Could someone give me an approximate power and price comparison of the two?
ohyouagain
Member
Select a motherboard with Thunderbolt 3 and embrace the external GPU technology
No more cable management hassle !
well, you'll have to wire all the other components but still..
GlamFM
Banned
Don´t confuse me even further!
I´m back with the Asus Z170-P ATX LGA1151 because it is the better board - right?
ISee
Member
GTX 1080 will be the newest go to ultra high end card, till we get the 980ti. High price but best performance out there but probably still not enough for 4k/60 in a single setup.
Cards based on Polaris 10 are supposed to be the new best mid tier cards and the best when it comes to performance for money. But overall significantly slower than the 1080.
(Everything I said is based on rumours and we have to wait for benchmarks and final retail prices)
hooijdonk17
Member
Thanks, and I guess Vega 10 will probably sucker punch the 1080?
Theonik
Member
Maybe but by the time Vega 10 is out, the 1080 will not be nVidia's flagship anymore.
ISee
Member
It will at least compete in the same league, but Nvidia will try to sucker punch Vegas with their 1080Ti (supposed to come with hbm2) and/or a new titan card. We'll see, it's way too early to speculate about Vegas, volta or 1080ti performance and every rumour about them is based (more or less) on wishfull thinking.
GlamFM
Banned
UPDATE:
This is where I´m at now.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor (€340.95 @ Amazon Deutschland)
CPU Cooler: NZXT Kraken X61 106.1 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler (€157.84 @ Mindfactory)
Motherboard: Asus Z170-P ATX LGA1151 Motherboard (€115.89 @ Amazon Deutschland)
Memory: Corsair Dominator Platinum 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory (€251.89 @ Amazon Deutschland)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (€89.40 @ Mindfactory)
Case: NZXT S340 (White) ATX Mid Tower Case (€87.83 @ Mindfactory)
Power Supply: Corsair 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply (€131.90 @ Mindfactory)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) (€95.75 @ Mindfactory)
Total: €1271.45
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-05-12 11:31 CEST+0200
New set of questions.
-Is my CPU overkill? Does it make sense to go for the most expensive one?
-Is my RAM good?
-I hear different things about the NZXT Kraken. Some say it is super loud and makes weird noises. What´s your take?
-Still need an HDD - just tell me what to get.
-Good choice for the PSU?
GPU will be a 1080.
Does everything look good to you?
THANKS!
This is where I´m at now.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor (€340.95 @ Amazon Deutschland)
CPU Cooler: NZXT Kraken X61 106.1 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler (€157.84 @ Mindfactory)
Motherboard: Asus Z170-P ATX LGA1151 Motherboard (€115.89 @ Amazon Deutschland)
Memory: Corsair Dominator Platinum 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory (€251.89 @ Amazon Deutschland)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (€89.40 @ Mindfactory)
Case: NZXT S340 (White) ATX Mid Tower Case (€87.83 @ Mindfactory)
Power Supply: Corsair 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply (€131.90 @ Mindfactory)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) (€95.75 @ Mindfactory)
Total: €1271.45
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-05-12 11:31 CEST+0200
New set of questions.
-Is my CPU overkill? Does it make sense to go for the most expensive one?
-Is my RAM good?
-I hear different things about the NZXT Kraken. Some say it is super loud and makes weird noises. What´s your take?
-Still need an HDD - just tell me what to get.
-Good choice for the PSU?
GPU will be a 1080.
Does everything look good to you?
THANKS!
ISee
Member
You're going for a high end gpu that is supposed to outperform a titan x. Going at least for the best mainstream cpu out there makes sense, imo.
A 750W Powersupply is overkill. You can go down to 600W, probably even less.
Going for higher clocked ddr4 ram definitely is a good idea as it seems to scale very good with Intel cpus and really improve performance in cpu heavy gaming situations. 32 GB on the other side isn't nessacary and you can save some money by going for 'just' 16 GB if you want to.
GlamFM
Banned
User 479360
Banned
I know this doesn't really fit in, but I don't know where else to ask.
I need to find a cheap laptop ($150-170 US, preferably) for a trip I'm taking where I'll have to do some reports. My old, ten year old MacBook won't cut it.
This is the only thing I've found. The 1 star reviews scare me, but the 5 stars are reassuring.
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/dell-in...ali-blue/4870000.p?id=bb4870000&skuId=4870000
*I only want the laptop for basic Internet use, YouTube, and that type of thing. Plus, as mentioned, being able to do some writing in Word or WordPress.
I need to find a cheap laptop ($150-170 US, preferably) for a trip I'm taking where I'll have to do some reports. My old, ten year old MacBook won't cut it.
This is the only thing I've found. The 1 star reviews scare me, but the 5 stars are reassuring.
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/dell-in...ali-blue/4870000.p?id=bb4870000&skuId=4870000
*I only want the laptop for basic Internet use, YouTube, and that type of thing. Plus, as mentioned, being able to do some writing in Word or WordPress.
hooijdonk17
Member
Well, Vega is supposedly coming in October so no, 1080 (or 1080Ti) will probably still be the flagship..
EatChildren
Currently polling second in Australia's federal election (first in the Gold Coast), this feral may one day be your Bogan King.
So you guys weren't kidding about Win10 handling hardware changes well. Currently running on a new MBO, CPU, and RAM, retaining the SDD, HDD, GPU, and sound card from my other build, and it was an almost perfect transition. Just needed to install some fresh MBO drivers, but otherwise a seamless crossover to significant hardware changes.
That's awesome.
That's awesome.
PepsimanVsJoe
Member
Thinking about upgrading from a Radeon 6870 to a GTX 1070.
My processor is definitely going to need an update.
Current: Intel(R) Core(TM) i5-2320 CPU @ 3.00GHz (4 CPUs), ~3.0GHz
Also going to need a cooling system as well.
Thoughts? Suggestions?
EDIT: At this point I might have to consider a new motherboard. Bleahh.. Now I'm not so hyped.
My processor is definitely going to need an update.
Current: Intel(R) Core(TM) i5-2320 CPU @ 3.00GHz (4 CPUs), ~3.0GHz
Also going to need a cooling system as well.
Thoughts? Suggestions?
EDIT: At this point I might have to consider a new motherboard. Bleahh.. Now I'm not so hyped.
I thought changing the motherboard meant buying a new windows license though?
Looks pretty good to me! I use corsair AIO, so I can't say anything about the Kraken.
You probably don't need 32 gigs of ram, but if you can get some deal then why not.
For HDD, you can just get some 2TB WD green or something similar
For the power supply, there are cheaper, good EVGA or seasonic psu I think.
ISee
Member
Not anymore. I was even able to use my 'old' win 8 key to activate a freshly installed win 10 after upgrading my cpu, mobo and ram. Microsoft changed the whole thing a while ago. Of course you first have to upgrade to win 10 before being able to use your win 8 (or 7) key for fresh win 10 installs in the future.
GlamFM
Banned
Looks pretty good to me! I use corsair AIO, so I can't say anything about the Kraken.
You probably don't need 32 gigs of ram, but if you can get some deal then why not.
For HDD, you can just get some 2TB WD green or something similar
For the power supply, there are cheaper, good EVGA or seasonic psu I think.
Could you be so kind and point me DIRECTLY to a good HDD
I have no idea what to look for RPM wise.
EatChildren
Currently polling second in Australia's federal election (first in the Gold Coast), this feral may one day be your Bogan King.
Yeah, now you can just use a valid Win7/Win8.1 key to activate Win10 on new hardware if the license is legit.
Anyway, couple of qs;
- Anybody got a decent guide on Skylake OCing, or some times? I did a super easy OC on my i7 2600K by just increasing the multiplayer and VCore as necessary. Here there seems to be quite a few more tweaks.
- I'd like to set my RAM correctly. I've purchased these which are rated as 3000MHz DDR4, but also list PC4-24000. I can't actually set the speed 3000Mhz in the BIOS, as the nearest neighbour is 3066Mhz. I've got it on 2400 for the time being. Is this accurate or buuuustteeed?
EDIT: Never mind that last one. Updated my BIOS and the option became available.
Anyway, couple of qs;
- Anybody got a decent guide on Skylake OCing, or some times? I did a super easy OC on my i7 2600K by just increasing the multiplayer and VCore as necessary. Here there seems to be quite a few more tweaks.
- I'd like to set my RAM correctly. I've purchased these which are rated as 3000MHz DDR4, but also list PC4-24000. I can't actually set the speed 3000Mhz in the BIOS, as the nearest neighbour is 3066Mhz. I've got it on 2400 for the time being. Is this accurate or buuuustteeed?
EDIT: Never mind that last one. Updated my BIOS and the option became available.
Gen.Grievous
Member
Skylake OC is the same. Increase multiplier and vcore, stress test, reduce vcore until things become unstable and finally change vcore to adaptive/offset from the last value that was stable.
I used the OC.net guide.
Later Alligator
Member
i can offload my 970 for $300 and get a 980ti for $400, so $100 to upgrade
worth it or wait for the 1070/1080? seems like a pretty good deal to me
its the asus strix model for both, so non-reference cards that are factory OC'd. All prices are in CAD, components are a lot more expensive here. 980tis are still $850 plus taxes in stores
worth it or wait for the 1070/1080? seems like a pretty good deal to me
its the asus strix model for both, so non-reference cards that are factory OC'd. All prices are in CAD, components are a lot more expensive here. 980tis are still $850 plus taxes in stores
UpDownLeftRight
Banned
My new RAM came today. Couple questions regarding swapping them over since my mate usually puts together my fresh builds and this is a one bit upgrade. Do I need to do anything in the BIOS after like change RAM timings?
Secondly, does anyone know what PIN release the MSI Z97 Gaming 5 mobo uses?
Secondly, does anyone know what PIN release the MSI Z97 Gaming 5 mobo uses?
Check the mounting of your cooler. Too much paste won't effect temps, too little will.
$100 to upgrade is nothing. Since we don't know the CAD prices for the 10xx, I'd say this would be a safe choice, and the 980ti should be easy to sell for around what you paid.
Coolermaster Hyper 212x
Oh right, thought too much acts as an insulator. I'll see if it's mounted properly then.
Technically yes, but I'm assuming what you think is too much, probably isn't all that bad enough. (whole tube)
ISee
Member
I've done some research and picked out some stuff for my first build. Blowing past my initial budget but we'll see I guess, might just save up a bit and spoil myself. Here's what I came up with. Does everything look okay to you Gaf and is there anything missing that I would need? Because I have friggin no idea what I'm doing. haha
If you'Re willing to spent more than your old $700 limit and now moved on to even ~$1100 may I suggest another build?
I think you're overpaying significantly on the mouse + keyboard. Get something cheap to start with and invest your money into hardware first. Than, after a couple of months get a better mouse and keyboard (if you really need/want one). It's much more easy to change a mouse than a much more important GPU.
This build is a bit low on disc space but that's something you can easily change by buying a 2tb HHD at some point in the future and games need a lot of space today, you'll be happy about the larger ssd. Trust me.
The CPU is faster (obviously) and it sits on a z170 board, so if you want to upgrade into a k model or even an i7 6700k in the future you have the option to do so. Also this mainboard is able to support faster DDR4 ram which will definitely help you in cpu heavy games, a lot!
The 380x is a descent GPU. It performs quiet well and with the i5 6500 you'll be able to hit 1080p/60fps if you're willing to turn down some settings. Still I'd recommend (and I know I'm repeating myself) to wait before buying a mind range gpu now. But if you really have to, get all the other parts , use the integrated GPU on your i5 processor for 4-5 weeks and get the 480(x) and enjoy even better performance for the same amount of money.
- Status