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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 2. Read the OP. Rocking 2500K's until HBM2 and beyond.

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I would try rolling back your video card driver (unless you haven't updated it in forever, in which case update it). You can also try running memtest86 to exclude a RAM problem.

All gpu drivers are updated regularly.

Ran Memtest86 with no errors spotted. Is there sent kind of program I can run on the computer that will give me some sort of crash log or explanation of what happens when the games crash? Or is it just computers being computers?
 

LilJoka

Member
All gpu drivers are updated regularly.

Ran Memtest86 with no errors spotted. Is there sent kind of program I can run on the computer that will give me some sort of crash log or explanation of what happens when the games crash? Or is it just computers being computers?

No point digging into details if all works properly at stock settings.

Did you check if the load Vcore in CPUz matches the Vcore reading taken under load conditions with default settings? That will tell you if you have too little vcore set in the BIOS. As i said, there is a drop in Vcore from whats set in the Bios to Windows Idle to Load. This is why we set the Load Line Calibration in the next steps to remove the majority of these drops.
 

LilJoka

Member
Ahhh I see. So is everything else on this build okay or is that outdated?

Somewhat, here's a start point, GTX 970 a place holder for your 1070/1080.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($233.75 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($24.89 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Asus Z170M-PLUS Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($118.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($69.88 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Crucial BX200 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($63.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($46.98 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 970 4GB Twin Frozr V Video Card ($319.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Phanteks Enthoo EVOLV MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($119.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: Corsair RMx 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($79.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $1078.45
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-05-15 17:36 EDT-0400
 
No point digging into details if all works properly at stock settings.

Did you check if the load Vcore in CPUz matches the Vcore reading taken under load conditions with default settings? That will tell you if you have too little vcore set in the BIOS. As i said, there is a drop in Vcore from whats set in the Bios to Windows Idle to Load. This is why we set the Load Line Calibration in the next steps to remove the majority of these drops.

Maybe I misunderstood, but I thought he said he was having issues at stock settings?
 
Hey guys, I need some help. After the announcement of the 1000 series by Nvidia I got excited, but after analyzing my current PC I've started to think it might bottleneck. The budget I have for this is aroun $400, so I've come up with 2 possible outcomes:

1) I buy a new CPU and motherboard and postpone the GPU 'til next year (financial issues)
2) I overclock my current CPU, something I've never done before and buy the GPU when it comes out.

My current specs are:

Monitor: LG 22 inches LED HDTV 1920x1080
CPU: Intel Core i5 3570k 3.40 GHz
GPU: Nvidia GTX 960 4G
RAM: 12 GB RAM
HDD: 1TB Seagate 7200 RPM

I mainly use my computer for gaming. What would you recommend?
 

LilJoka

Member
Hey guys, I need some help. After the announcement of the 1000 series by Nvidia I got excited, but after analyzing my current PC I've started to think it might bottleneck. The budget I have for this is aroun $400, so I've come up with 2 possible outcomes:

1) I buy a new CPU and motherboard and postpone the GPU 'til next year (financial issues)
2) I overclock my current CPU, something I've never done before and buy the GPU when it comes out.

My current specs are:

Monitor: LG 22 inches LED HDTV 1920x1080
CPU: Intel Core i5 3570k 3.40 GHz
GPU: Nvidia GTX 960 4G
RAM: 12 GB RAM
HDD: 1TB Seagate 7200 RPM

I mainly use my computer for gaming. What would you recommend?

Buy the 1070/1080.
Overclock the CPU.
Still bottlenecked? Buy an i7 3770k and overclock it.
Get faster ram 2x8gb 1866 CL10 or 2133Mhz CL11 if budget allows.
 

DBT85

Member
According to a Digital Foundry video, faster speed RAM can have an effect on certain games, giving you noticeably higher framerates than lower speed RAM.

https://youtu.be/Er_Fuz54U0Y

I saw the review of the 6500 and those numbers.

For some games that are CPU limited because they are running a Titan X overclocked at 1080 you can improve your framerates. Average joe isn't running a Titan X. Fuck I'm an enthusiast and I'm only running a 980ti. How do those results scale if you're only playing with a lower spec GPU?? How does it scale for me when I'm on a 980ti but playing at 2560x1600?

I can't deny the results in things like The Witcher and GTA, but since those are not the type of games I'm playing, and since DDR4 seems to overclock just fine anyway, buying 2400 and leaving it stock, or overclocking it if you're that bothered seems a better bet for me.

It's also the only time I've seen that kind of gain on memory changes. I've seen several others showing 1-3 fps boosts, so the system configuration as a whole is playing a part.

TBH if you're spunking TX money, you're going to buy crazy ram anyway.
 

SScorpio

Member
Sounds good, I was thinking of buying this Water 3.0 cooler since I've a tight budget. What do you think?

Since you're on a budget just get a good air cooler like the Coolermaster 212x and save over 50% of the cost of that.

Overclocking is very easy, and starting out you won't benefit from the water cooler versus an air cooler.

My recommendation is to also skip the GPU upgrade if everything is still running OK at 1080p. Just save up and do a full CPU/MB/GPU upgrade next year. You'll be able to get a card with HBM2 memory, and a motherboard that support NVLink for crazy memory throughput.
 

valeo

Member
The Phanteks P400 is an awesome case at $59. If someone is looking for something cheap/sturdy and has a good amount of features. Cable management is simple too. I haven't put one of these together in 10 years, and it was easy.

I was in the same position and got the Pro M - I have never put together something so tidy in my entire life. Last time I built a PC it was a complete mess. Those already-attached velcro straps work wonders.

On that - I'm thinking I should probably get another fan. I current just only a 140mm (I think) fan on my Phanteks Pro M at the back as an exhaust fan.

Should I get a 200m fan to put in the front?
 

appaws

Banned
So where are you guys who have 6700k processors as far as overclocks...?

I have 4.7 at 1.392v. Tops out at 78C using Realbench full blast...under custom water. I'm pretty happy.

Asus Z170-A, btw.
 

NeOak

Member
One thing I've never spend extra money on is fast ram. Never seen the point. had 1600 on DDR3 and 2400 on DDR4.

ayyy lmao

I saw the review of the 6500 and those numbers.

For some games that are CPU limited because they are running a Titan X overclocked at 1080 you can improve your framerates. Average joe isn't running a Titan X. Fuck I'm an enthusiast and I'm only running a 980ti. How do those results scale if you're only playing with a lower spec GPU?? How does it scale for me when I'm on a 980ti but playing at 2560x1600?

I can't deny the results in things like The Witcher and GTA, but since those are not the type of games I'm playing, and since DDR4 seems to overclock just fine anyway, buying 2400 and leaving it stock, or overclocking it if you're that bothered seems a better bet for me.

It's also the only time I've seen that kind of gain on memory changes. I've seen several others showing 1-3 fps boosts, so the system configuration as a whole is playing a part.

TBH if you're spunking TX money, you're going to buy crazy ram anyway.

Seems like it is only for your specific case, so please stop spreading that as something that applies to everyone else.
 

Thorgal

Member
a long time ago i posted here about a problem i was having with my PC having a BSOD or hardcrash whenever iam downloadin some thing of steam while browsing the web .


only just now did i have it again , only this time i managed to read the error message properly.

it says : A driver has over-run a stack-based buffer. This over-run could potentially allow a malicious user to gain control of this machine

any idea what this is causing and how to resolve it ?
 

NeOak

Member
a long time ago i posted here about a problem i was having with my PC having a BSOD or hardcrash whenever iam downloadin some thing of steam while browsing the web .


only just now did i have it again , only this time i managed to read the error message properly.

it says : A driver has over-run a stack-based buffer. This over-run could potentially allow a malicious user to gain control of this machine

any idea what this is causing and how to resolve it ?

Check the event viewer

http://windows.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/what-information-event-logs-event-viewer#1TC=windows-7
 
The PC parts in the OP haven't been updated in awhile. Any suggestions for a middle-of-the-road power supply? I'm wanting to be a little future-proof so I'm thinking around 650W.

I'm becoming increasingly certain my power supply is showing signs of failing which is why my computer reboots often upon loading up games (or about 10-20 minutes into a game but then will do instant reboots when trying to relaunch for the next several hours).

Are connectors mostly universal or should I take stock of what's in my PC to be sure things will connect? I built it using the old power supply back in December so most the stuff is fairly current. The graphics card is a bit older with I believe an Radeon R9 270x. If needed I can list out the main components.

Edit: For me to test it instantly I was able to grab a Corsair CXM 750W or whatever the model is at a nearby Best Buy. Swapped it out and both a game and Furmark started up without rebooting, which is a pleasant change. I'll have a longer gaming session later to really test it but for now it seems that it was the PSU and the swap was needed. A little more wattage than I really need but options are limited at Best Buy in store.
 

Thorgal

Member

this is what it looks like :

naamloosh3qlf.png
 

DBT85

Member
Seems like it is only for your specific case, so please stop spreading that as something that applies to everyone else.

At no point did I say it did.

I will leave this here though from Anand.

http://anandtech.com/show/8959/ddr4...-3200-with-gskill-corsair-adata-and-crucial/6

This time its a broadwell e and a 770 single and SLI in 1080, all done last year.

If I get the chance I'll see what difference I get from my own when I clock it.

Would you like me to present that info or just keep it to myself since its only my specific case?
 

Quadratic

Member
Looking at upgrading my current rig which has a i7 920 @ 3.15 GHZ, 12GB DDR3, GTX670 2GB

Right now nothing seems super sluggish as I only play Blizzard games. I'm going to get Overwatch in 2 weeks and my fps was close to 60 during the beta. My question is since everyone is anticipating the new NV 1070 cards should I bite the bullet now and upgrade for an eventual GFX card purcahse during black friday?

I'm seeing sales for the i5 6600K currently. Am I technically downgrading from an i7 to a skylake i5? I know my CPU is over 6 years old now but I've never felt that it warranted upgrading until now.

Sorry if this question is obvious, but would I need to buy a fresh version of Windows 10 if I go with the CPU mobo upgrade? Can I just plug and play my current SSD and have windows auto install the necessary drivers?

Thanks.
 
Thanks for monitor recommendstions. Now another question, if attempting to future proof a 27+ inch monitor ($700/under) is it better to go 4k 1080p or a G-Sync?

It is hard for me to recommend one or the other to people who ask as I made a crazy jump from normal 1080p to a $1300 1440p and G-Sync monitor.
 

kuYuri

Member
I saw the review of the 6500 and those numbers.

For some games that are CPU limited because they are running a Titan X overclocked at 1080 you can improve your framerates. Average joe isn't running a Titan X. Fuck I'm an enthusiast and I'm only running a 980ti. How do those results scale if you're only playing with a lower spec GPU?? How does it scale for me when I'm on a 980ti but playing at 2560x1600?

I can't deny the results in things like The Witcher and GTA, but since those are not the type of games I'm playing, and since DDR4 seems to overclock just fine anyway, buying 2400 and leaving it stock, or overclocking it if you're that bothered seems a better bet for me.

It's also the only time I've seen that kind of gain on memory changes. I've seen several others showing 1-3 fps boosts, so the system configuration as a whole is playing a part.

TBH if you're spunking TX money, you're going to buy crazy ram anyway.

The price difference between 2133mhz and 3200mhz is becoming miniscule. If we just go by G.Skill DDR4 RAM for example, right now at Newegg I can get 16GB 2133 ram for $54 or get 16GB 3200 for $76. That's only a difference of $22 dollars, so why not go for the higher speed ram if you're building a $1000+ gaming PC?

You're right that there are other variables at play. I would love to see DF try these tests with other GPUs and other games, but neither they nor anyone else that I've seen are doing those tests. It would be interesting to see the results of that.

If a person here is building a PC and were on a budget, they are probably trying to spend as little as possible anyway so of course they are going for the cheaper RAM and other components. These results are mostly going to be relevant to people who are building higher end gaming PCs and want their games to run well.
 

DBT85

Member
The price difference between 2133mhz and 3200mhz is becoming miniscule. If we just go by G.Skill DDR4 RAM for example, right now at Newegg I can get 16GB 2133 ram for $54 or get 16GB 3200 for $76. That's only a difference of $22 dollars, so why not?

You're right that there are other variables at play. I would love to see DF try these tests with other GPUs, but neither they nor anyone else that I've seen are doing those tests. It would be interesting to see the results of that.

If a person here is building a PC and were on a budget, they are probably trying to spend as little as possible anyway so of course they are going for the cheaper RAM and other components. These results are mostly going to be relevant to people who are building higher end gaming PCs and want their games to run well.

Couldn't agree more :)
 
What should I look for in terms of I/O (input output) when looking for a new motherboard? I'm planning on possibly getting a z170 board for skylake some time next month (first pc build ever). Should I get one with thunderbolt, and what can thunderbolt do for me? How many usb slots should I look for? If I'm using one for mouse, one for keyboard, how many extra would I need for say VR? Any recommendations in the ~$150-$170 ish price range? Thanks.

edit : planning on i7 6700k and a gtx 1080 to go with the mb.
 
I believe he used manual vcore then started having issues. Let's wait for clarification.

Issues started happening before I did anything to the vcore or any settings in general.

After tinkering with vcore I couldn't event boot. So I will have to go back to that and experiment with that some more.
 

knitoe

Member
Issues started happening before I did anything to the vcore or any settings in general.

After tinkering with vcore I couldn't event boot. So I will have to go back to that and experiment with that some more.

Are you trying to overclock your CPU? If yes, just follow my previous posted instructions instead:

Just keep in mind to stay under 80C and max 1.35V core voltage.

1) Download HWinfo, to monitor CPU temps and core voltage, and Prime95, for stress testing.

2) In the Bios, set core voltage = MANUAL and enter 1.350V,

3) Start by entering a multiplier that increases the CPU speed to 4.0GHz which 99% of CPUs can at the voltage entered.

4) Enter Windows. Run HWinfo in "Sensor only mode." Now, test with Prime 95 small fft for about 15 min. If Prime 95 has no errors and temps are staying <80C. Continue.

5) Keep on increasing the multiplier by 1 and repeat #4 until it fails.

6) Once it fails, whether due to Windows crash, Prime errors and/or too high temps, go down 1 multiplier. Test for a few hours. If everything passes, that is your best OC speed for your setup. You can stop here if you want.


Now, if you want, you can work on lowering your core voltage, which also lowers the CPU temps, and/or use CPU Core OFFSET instead of MANUAL, which allows the CPU to use less voltages while idling.

To lower voltage:

A) Keep on decreasing the core voltage by .010 and test 15 min with Prime95. So, decrease 1.350V to 1.340V, 1.340V to 1.330V and etc. until it fails.

B) Increase voltage by .005V until it passes. Then, run for a few hours. Add more voltage if needed.

C) Now, you should have the best voltage number for you OC speed.

To work on OFFSET:

A) Start with + 0.050. Run HWinfo and Prime95. Look at the core voltage. The number will probably be different from what you found in #C.

B) So, you need to go back into the Bios, adjust + or - number to come to the correct amount. You will have to mess around a few times before you get a general feel on how much to add or subtract.
 

kennah

Member
What should I look for in terms of I/O (input output) when looking for a new motherboard? I'm planning on possibly getting a z170 board for skylake some time next month (first pc build ever). Should I get one with thunderbolt, and what can thunderbolt do for me? How many usb slots should I look for? If I'm using one for mouse, one for keyboard, how many extra would I need for say VR? Any recommendations in the ~$150-$170 ish price range? Thanks.

edit : planning on i7 6700k and a gtx 1080 to go with the mb.

Really only you have the answer to those questions. Look into the info for the VR headset you are going to use. They need anywhere from 2 ports to 4 ports. How many peripherals are you plugging in? Will you need the hyper fast external disk access that thunderbolt provides (protip: if you don't know what thunderbolt is, you don't need it) and even then, if a motherboard doesn't have enough usb3 ports then a hub is just $20 anyway. Find a board that you like the look of. You really can't go wrong.

What case are you planning on using?
 

LilJoka

Member
So where are you guys who have 6700k processors as far as overclocks...?

I have 4.7 at 1.392v. Tops out at 78C using Realbench full blast...under custom water. I'm pretty happy.

Asus Z170-A, btw.

Running 4.5Ghz 1.32v, my temps are very high, hitting around 90c in prime95 albeit. Asus Z170I Pro Gaming.

Issues started happening before I did anything to the vcore or any settings in general.

After tinkering with vcore I couldn't event boot. So I will have to go back to that and experiment with that some more.

Apply the optimised defaults in BIOS then work out why your PC is not working properly before doing any overclocking.

You can use BSODViewer to view the BSOD dumps.

The price difference between 2133mhz and 3200mhz is becoming miniscule. If we just go by G.Skill DDR4 RAM for example, right now at Newegg I can get 16GB 2133 ram for $54 or get 16GB 3200 for $76. That's only a difference of $22 dollars, so why not go for the higher speed ram if you're building a $1000+ gaming PC?

You're right that there are other variables at play. I would love to see DF try these tests with other GPUs and other games, but neither they nor anyone else that I've seen are doing those tests. It would be interesting to see the results of that.

If a person here is building a PC and were on a budget, they are probably trying to spend as little as possible anyway so of course they are going for the cheaper RAM and other components. These results are mostly going to be relevant to people who are building higher end gaming PCs and want their games to run well.

I can run some tests with my setup
i7 6700k 4.5ghz, GTX 970 and 2x8gb 3000mhz cl14, I'll just drop the speed to 2133mhz cl13.
 
Really only you have the answer to those questions. Look into the info for the VR headset you are going to use. They need anywhere from 2 ports to 4 ports. How many peripherals are you plugging in? Will you need the hyper fast external disk access that thunderbolt provides (protip: if you don't know what thunderbolt is, you don't need it) and even then, if a motherboard doesn't have enough usb3 ports then a hub is just $20 anyway. Find a board that you like the look of. You really can't go wrong.

What case are you planning on using?
Thanks for the reply, I forgot that usb hubs were a thing lol, thanks for reminding me. That should solve my usb problems if I come across any. I've got a corsair 400q mid tower that I'll be using.
 

LilJoka

Member
Thanks for the reply, I forgot that usb hubs were a thing lol, thanks for reminding me. That should solve my usb problems if I come across any. I've got a corsair 400q mid tower that I'll be using.

Other things to consider in terms of IO, usb 3.1, usb C, m.2 slots, number of motherboard fan headers, Bluetooth version.
 

ISee

Member
16 or 32 gigs of ram?

For gaming 16 gb are more than enough at least till we get a 'real' PS5 and most probably even a couple of years after that. In the last couple of years people went with 'just' 8 gb of ram and to be honest it's still enough for gaming atm, with only a couple of games performing a bit better with 16gb.
If you on the other side wish to use multiple virtual machines, want to setup a server or partake in extremely heavy video/photo editing than 32 gb of ram make sense.

But my recommendation: Instead of investing in 32gb of ram invest in faster clocked 16gb of ram (3000+ mhz) for your skylake build and enjoy a even faster perfromance in most cpu heavy games.

What should I look for in terms of I/O (input output) when looking for a new motherboard? I'm planning on possibly getting a z170 board for skylake some time next month (first pc build ever). Should I get one with thunderbolt, and what can thunderbolt do for me? How many usb slots should I look for? If I'm using one for mouse, one for keyboard, how many extra would I need for say VR? Any recommendations in the ~$150-$170 ish price range? Thanks.

edit : planning on i7 6700k and a gtx 1080 to go with the mb.

Perfromance wise there aren't huge benefits in buying an expansive mb over a cheaper one (at least if they use the same chipset).
If you're going for the Oculus Rift than you'll need 4 usb ports (2x3.0 and at least 2x2.0). The rest is really up to you, as only you know what you'll really need. Do you need one with a WiFi adapter, are you going to use the soundcard on there? how many sdds/hdds are you going to connect?

If you want a recommendation the asus z170-a is a descent and not very expansive mb (~&#8364;/$150).

- no build in WiFi adapter.
- no built in Thunderbolt but a dedicated Thunderbolt header (for use with thunderbolt expansion cards).
- sli/cross fire support
- on the backpanel: 2xusb 3.0, 2 x usb 2.0, 2 x usb3.1 (one type a, one type c) and plenty usb mid board connectors (to be used for case front panels etc.)
- descent on board sound card (it's surprisingly good)
- supports XMP ddr4 ram (factory ooverclocked ddr4 ram)
- 6 x SATA 6Gb/s connectors
- 1 x M.2 Socket 3
- 2 x PCIe 3.0/2.0 x16 (x16 or dual x8)
- 1 x PCIe 3.0/2.0 x16 (max at x4 mode) *1
- 3 x PCIe 3.0/2.0 x1
-1 x PCI

etc.

Obviously it's not the best mobo out there when it comes to equipment but it's more than enough for most gaming builds. At least it gives you a starting point for comparing what most mobos offer in each price category.
 

Talax

Member
Could anyone help on getting a keyboard?

Looking for slimmest possible without being difficult to use, and it should be wireless.
Preferably white in colour.

Is there a site that does reviews of keyboards?
 
Apply the optimised defaults in BIOS then work out why your PC is not working properly before doing any overclocking.

You can use BSODViewer to view the BSOD dumps.

My main issue is not with BSOD, that was only introduced after trying to overclock. Main issue is that games quit without warning or error codes. I just suddenly am looking at my desktop again.

Can minidumb also give any insight into that, or do I need a separate tool for that?
 

LilJoka

Member
My main issue is not with BSOD, that was only introduced after trying to overclock. Main issue is that games quit without warning or error codes. I just suddenly am looking at my desktop again.

Can minidumb also give any insight into that, or do I need a separate tool for that?

That is more difficult to diagnose.
Check the basics:
Drivers up to date? Chipset/LAN/GPU/USB
Check the system temperatures using HWMonitor.
Is it every single game? Try a different one.
 

Thorgal

Member
Download BSODViewer to analyse the dump file.
Or upload the dump file for us to have a look.
%SystemRoot%Minidump

i looked for it but there was no log made in the minidump .

i had it switched on but it was set to dump the entire Memory dump and kernel memory .
 

LilJoka

Member
i looked for it but there was no log made in the minidump .

i had it switched on but it was set to dump the entire Memory dump and kernel memory .

Try this
Navigate to C:WindowsMinidump and drag the contents to your desktop. If the minidump folder is not there or empty there may be a larger DMP file located at C:WINDOWS called MEMORY.DMP which we can also use.

This will probably be massive if it's a full dump. Size of the ram most likely.
 
So to all the people who are looking for a new fancy monitor for cheap that 1440p 144hz Gsync monitor by Dell is on sale today at newegg for $479.99. Definitely tempting to me.
 
That is more difficult to diagnose.
Check the basics:
Drivers up to date? Chipset/LAN/GPU/USB
Check the system temperatures using HWMonitor.
Is it every single game? Try a different one.

GPU drivers are up to date. Motherboard is the latest stable firmware released (is that what chipset means in this context?).

So far it's been in the three games I've been playing for the past week. They quit to desktop somewhere after between 15 and 40 minutes of play time.

What should I be looking for withimn HWMonitor? What is bad situations?
 

LilJoka

Member
GPU drivers are up to date. Motherboard is the latest stable firmware released (is that what chipset means in this context?).

So far it's been in the three games I've been playing for the past week. They quit to desktop somewhere after between 15 and 40 minutes of play time.

What should I be looking for withimn HWMonitor? What is bad situations?

In HWMonitor just look at the max temp for the GPU and CPU cores, neither should be over 80c.

To rule out the games being buggy, you can stress the PC with prime95 small fft and unigene heaven running.

You can test ram with HCI Memtest (need to test 2gb per window).
 

Thorgal

Member
Try this
Navigate to C:WindowsMinidump and drag the contents to your desktop. If the minidump folder is not there or empty there may be a larger DMP file located at C:WINDOWS called MEMORY.DMP which we can also use.

This will probably be massive if it's a full dump. Size of the ram most likely.

this is the memory file ( hope i did it right don't use dropbox that often : https://www.dropbox.com/s/vx09dmagf0207fq/MEMORY.DMP?dl=0
 

LilJoka

Member
this is the memory file ( hope i did it right don't use dropbox that often : https://www.dropbox.com/s/vx09dmagf0207fq/MEMORY.DMP?dl=0

So you had BSOD 0x124 which normally means hardware issue:
On Tue 16/02/2016 16:24:54 GMT your computer crashed
crash dump file: C:\WINDOWS\memory.dmp
This was probably caused by the following module: hal.dll (hal!HalBugCheckSystem+0x1E3)
Bugcheck code: 0x124 (0x0, 0xFFFFFA800D5A7028, 0xBE200000, 0x11166)
Error: WHEA_UNCORRECTABLE_ERROR
file path: C:\WINDOWS\system32\hal.dll
product: Microsoft® Windows® Operating System
company: Microsoft Corporation
description: Hardware Abstraction Layer DLL
Bug check description: This bug check indicates that a fatal hardware error has occurred. This bug check uses the error data that is provided by the Windows Hardware Error Architecture (WHEA).
This is likely to be caused by a hardware problem problem. This problem might be caused by a thermal issue.
The crash took place in a standard Microsoft module. Your system configuration may be incorrect. Possibly this problem is caused by another driver on your system that cannot be identified at this time.

Any overclocks? Typical of lack of Vcore.
Try run some Prime95 (small fft test) and see if you can reproduce it.

WHEA_UNCORRECTABLE_ERROR - refers to the inbuilt CPU error correction being unable to correct an error due to its extent.
 
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