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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 1. Read the OP and RISE ABOVE FORGED PRECISION SCIENCE
- Thread starter Hazaro
- Start date
- Status
Your Current Specs:
I have an Ncase M1 and a SX 600G PSU.
Main Use:
Gaming 5
3D Rendering 4 (Solidworks, while I can still have a student license :V)
Video/Image Editing 4 (Adobe CS6)
Streaming/Capture 3
Monitor Resolution: I have a 1080/144hz. I would prioritise 144hz over eye candy (you should see my Mac mini TF2 config lol)
However, I am keen to upgrade to an IPS 1440/144hz by January, as I'd like to play Mirrors's Edge 2 on one, at or near max settings (I guess BF4 would be a good reference for me to use?)
Looking to reuse any parts?: As above, Case and PSU. Likely buy a mid range GPU in the interim while I wait for the next round.
As such, I'm wondering with my m-itx case constraints and preference for less heat/noise am I better off with the i7 6700k, the 5775C, or the 5820K?
I'm a little confused as the 65W TDP of the 5775C (and low frame times) seems like it might be ideal for my case but are the 1151 advances over 1150 worth it from a future proofing perspective? The 5820 could also be a good investment for video crunching and future games, but the power draw/heat/noise might be awful? I am confused ):
When will you build?: late August/early Sept. Would be nice to play MGSV on PC but I can wait if there's an upcoming M-ITX board.
Will you be overclocking?: Maybe (This means yes). Not likely to move past 4.0 though, as I'd be concerned over temps and noise.
Thanks heaps for any advice!
I have an Ncase M1 and a SX 600G PSU.
Main Use:
Gaming 5
3D Rendering 4 (Solidworks, while I can still have a student license :V)
Video/Image Editing 4 (Adobe CS6)
Streaming/Capture 3
Monitor Resolution: I have a 1080/144hz. I would prioritise 144hz over eye candy (you should see my Mac mini TF2 config lol)
However, I am keen to upgrade to an IPS 1440/144hz by January, as I'd like to play Mirrors's Edge 2 on one, at or near max settings (I guess BF4 would be a good reference for me to use?)
Looking to reuse any parts?: As above, Case and PSU. Likely buy a mid range GPU in the interim while I wait for the next round.
As such, I'm wondering with my m-itx case constraints and preference for less heat/noise am I better off with the i7 6700k, the 5775C, or the 5820K?
I'm a little confused as the 65W TDP of the 5775C (and low frame times) seems like it might be ideal for my case but are the 1151 advances over 1150 worth it from a future proofing perspective? The 5820 could also be a good investment for video crunching and future games, but the power draw/heat/noise might be awful? I am confused ):
When will you build?: late August/early Sept. Would be nice to play MGSV on PC but I can wait if there's an upcoming M-ITX board.
Will you be overclocking?: Maybe (This means yes). Not likely to move past 4.0 though, as I'd be concerned over temps and noise.
Thanks heaps for any advice!
Hey guys, got my new build together, just wanted some peer review before I pulled the trigger.
PC Part Picker
Mainly I'm wondering about the difference between the ASUS motherboards, and whether the Deluxe is REALLY worth it or not.
I should also note that I have storage drives at home already, and that I'm using an OEM version of Windows 7 through which I will upgrade to Windows 10. Speaking of which, is there a way to do a clean install of Windows 10 with the upgrade, or do I have to install 7 first and THEN upgrade to 10?
Oh, also, is the street date for the i5-6600k's for sure 8/14/15? This is a computer I need for work and gaming purposes, and I will need it up and running no later than 8/20/15.
PC Part Picker
Mainly I'm wondering about the difference between the ASUS motherboards, and whether the Deluxe is REALLY worth it or not.
I should also note that I have storage drives at home already, and that I'm using an OEM version of Windows 7 through which I will upgrade to Windows 10. Speaking of which, is there a way to do a clean install of Windows 10 with the upgrade, or do I have to install 7 first and THEN upgrade to 10?
Oh, also, is the street date for the i5-6600k's for sure 8/14/15? This is a computer I need for work and gaming purposes, and I will need it up and running no later than 8/20/15.
I know GAF hates prebuilt PCs, but I don't trust myself to build one. How does this one look?
http://www.costco.com/Dell-XPS-8700...2GB-Graphics-|-Blu-ray.product.100156535.html
I'm thinking of going and seeing if the nearest store has that one this weekend. This weekend is the tax free weekend in Tennessee, so I can get it without sales tax this weekend.
http://www.costco.com/Dell-XPS-8700...2GB-Graphics-|-Blu-ray.product.100156535.html
I'm thinking of going and seeing if the nearest store has that one this weekend. This weekend is the tax free weekend in Tennessee, so I can get it without sales tax this weekend.
malingenie
Member
Hi gaf, I am thinking of going back to pc gaming. I will mostly use this machine for video games and eventually streaming to my tv via steam link.
Is this overkill for someone looking to play some new games but mostly old games (haven't had a pc in 10 years, so i have some digging to do!)
I am looking to cut costs any way I can, and also I don't know if the cooler will fit in the case :/
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/cZhPqs
Is this overkill for someone looking to play some new games but mostly old games (haven't had a pc in 10 years, so i have some digging to do!)
I am looking to cut costs any way I can, and also I don't know if the cooler will fit in the case :/
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/cZhPqs
Sleeping Lesson
Member
That looks like a solid build, malingenie. Couple of things:
I have an NZXT case very similar to that, and I don't recommend it. It has a sort of plastic exoskeleton that makes it bulkier than it needs to be, and it doesn't have a flat surface on the top (which may or may not matter). I would personally drop the CPU down to an i5-4690k and put the saved money toward a 980 ti if you can swing it. For your purposes, GPU is more important than a top of the line CPU.
I have an NZXT case very similar to that, and I don't recommend it. It has a sort of plastic exoskeleton that makes it bulkier than it needs to be, and it doesn't have a flat surface on the top (which may or may not matter). I would personally drop the CPU down to an i5-4690k and put the saved money toward a 980 ti if you can swing it. For your purposes, GPU is more important than a top of the line CPU.
Right, so reading up on the ASUS PG279Q it definitely seems like something I want. I also noticed that it now has an HDMI port. How would the PS4 look on a 2560 x 1440 screen? I'd prefer to be able to use it for both my PC and PS4, but if the PS4 looks bad I guess I might look at a 1920 x 1080 BenQ that has an HDMI port too
Bony Manifesto
Member
Some motherboards will support DDR3L, but none support standard DDR3.
malingenie
Member
Thanks, I'll take it into consideration! I'm so anxious and excited about this process! Would an i7 give me an edge when streaming to a TV over an i5 or not?
Sleeping Lesson
Member
The i7 is, of course, preferable. the i7s are better with multi-threaded stuff, but I don't know if steam link streaming benefits from that significantly.
What resolution do you plan to play at?
soulassssns
Banned
I am well over due to upgrade my A10 5800K desktop. What do you guys think of this bundle from Newegg?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819117605
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819117605
malingenie
Member
Probably mostly 1080p, 4k would be a nice to have, but I'm not even investing on fancy monitors or anything yet.
Sleeping Lesson
Member
If you'll be at 1080p for the near future, you're probably fine with a 980. I think people (certainly myself) tend to upgrade GPU before CPU, so perhaps getting the i7 is the better means of future-proofing. If you ever step up to 4k in the future, cards will be much more capable of handling it then anyway, and your CPU will probably still be perfectly fine. As much as the marketing likes to pretend, the current high-end cards aren't sufficient for 4k/60 in most games.
Ecto311
Member
Googled around and didn't see much - looking to build or part down my and my wifes computer to my daughter to build her something fairly capable. We have 2500k and 460GTX cards - so one of us might upgrade those bits. Are there any kid friendly cases or something she might get excited about? I do have a microcenter close and can order from amazon/newegg no problem too. I guess I could paint/decal an existing cast out there but looking for options if anyone knows of anything kid friendly.
How old is she? And what would make a case 'kid-friendly'? Are you looking for a specific size? Weight? Colour? Decoration?
SolidSnakeUS
Member
Is it worth getting the IPS G-sync display over the LED?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824009742
Or would this be just fine in terms of panel quality, colors and so on for G-sync?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...36405&cm_re=g-sync_27"-_-24-236-405-_-Product
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824009742
Or would this be just fine in terms of panel quality, colors and so on for G-sync?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...36405&cm_re=g-sync_27"-_-24-236-405-_-Product
To expound on this a little, I will be running a virtual machine for work. I play a lot of RTS and MMOs, both of which require a lot of CPU muscle is many cases... would it be better for me to wait for the i7-6700k or just go for the i5? Money isn't a huge issue, so I don't mind splurging, but only if it's going to have a real impact on my day-to-day use - which is also why I have a hard time justifying the ASUS Deluxe over the A.
I will be using an Samsung SM M.2 as my OS drive, if that will impact my motherboard choice.
You can build a more powerful PC with $1,000. My advice is build one yourself. It is really easy and GAF can help you through it. RMG79 helped me a lot when I built my first PC ever. I was worried a million things could go wrong, but in the end, I got it right on my first try.
Looks like a good build. I do have some recommendations. Go with a kit of 2x8GB RAM instead of 4x4GB. There's no benefit to filling up all the slots and you'll leave two slots free in case you should ever want or need to add more. Even if you don't need to, having the option open is nice. Also, a kit like this 2x8GB of black Ripjaws 4 3000MHz DDR4 RAM ($135) is cheaper than that 4x4GB kit of Corsair RAM you had listed.
Also, while that GTX 980 Ti is the cheapest one listed, if you're worried about temperatures or noise you could go for the model with an open-style cooler instead of the blower type cooler, like this EVGA GTX 980 Ti ACX2.0+ ($644) for less than $10 more. They tend to be able to overclock better and dissipate heat more easily than the reference style blower types.
Unless you actually need a feature that only the Deluxe has, I wouldn't go for the extra cost. The reviews that are available of the Asus Z170-A are all quite positive, there's nothing to really hate about it (unless you count not being expensive or high end enough).
Yes, you can only get the free upgrade to Windows 10 by upgrading from Windows 7/8/8.1 first. You can do a clean install after doing the upgrade. Let me repeat what I said on the other page:
You need to upgrade first and then you can do a clean install afterward. Windows 10 does not activate with license keys from previous versions of Windows. See here for more information and a guide on doing a clean installation. The relevant bits are as follows, quoted from that guide:
When you upgrade a Windows 7 or 8.1 system to Windows 10, the installer confirms that you have a “genuine Windows” system installed and activates your computer for use with Windows 10. Note that you don’t actually get a Windows 10 product key — instead, your computer’s hardware is registered with Microsoft’s servers. When you install Windows 10 on that PC again in the future, it will check in with Microsoft’s servers, confirm it’s installed on a registered PC, and automatically activate itself.
If you don’t take advantage of the upgrade process first, this registration will never happen. There’s no way to enter a Windows 7 or 8.1 key into the Windows 10 installer, nor is there some sort of web form that will give you a Windows 10 key if you provide your Windows 7 or 8.1 key. Sorry — you’ll have to upgrade to Windows 10 before you can perform a clean install.
When you upgrade a Windows 7 or 8.1 system to Windows 10, the installer confirms that you have a “genuine Windows” system installed and activates your computer for use with Windows 10. Note that you don’t actually get a Windows 10 product key — instead, your computer’s hardware is registered with Microsoft’s servers. When you install Windows 10 on that PC again in the future, it will check in with Microsoft’s servers, confirm it’s installed on a registered PC, and automatically activate itself.
If you don’t take advantage of the upgrade process first, this registration will never happen. There’s no way to enter a Windows 7 or 8.1 key into the Windows 10 installer, nor is there some sort of web form that will give you a Windows 10 key if you provide your Windows 7 or 8.1 key. Sorry — you’ll have to upgrade to Windows 10 before you can perform a clean install.
Skylake processor availability will depend on when the retailers get stock in. That's something you'll have to confirm with whatever place you're making the order with. I'm in Canada and not the US, but I've been told by Memory Express (Canadian tech retailer) that I can't expect to get my i7 6700K until the end of August. NCIX Canada's website says "ETA: 10/02/2015" which is probably just an unrealistic placeholder but disheartening.
Unless you're doing a combination of those things at the same time, you should be fine going with the i5 processor. As I already mentioned, I wouldn't go for the Deluxe either, but that's just me.
I haven't seen any Z170 reviews where the M.2 slot was a poor performer. So far I don't think there's a reason to worry about motherboard choice when it comes to M.2 and Z170.
You're totally right, and I'm also wary about it working well in the first place, hence the "I can't say for certain it works well" clause I mention every time I link to it. I should be clearer... or maybe just stop linking to this completely.
It's alright for moderate gaming at medium settings, just keep your expectations low. Here's what to expect performance-wise.
Budget? Location?
CreepingFear
Member
This is what I'm looking at as soon as the 6700k becomes available. Already have a 980 Ti Classified to put in.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 82.5 CFM CPU Cooler ($93.04 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Asus Z170-DELUXE ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($319.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($244.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 Pro Series 512GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($249.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital BLACK SERIES 4TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($201.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Fractal Design Define R5 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($122.98 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: SeaSonic Platinum 860W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($183.98 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Pro OEM (64-bit) ($139.99 @ Directron)
Total: $1556.95
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-08-07 00:05 EDT-0400
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 82.5 CFM CPU Cooler ($93.04 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Asus Z170-DELUXE ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($319.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($244.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 Pro Series 512GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($249.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital BLACK SERIES 4TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($201.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Fractal Design Define R5 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($122.98 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: SeaSonic Platinum 860W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($183.98 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Pro OEM (64-bit) ($139.99 @ Directron)
Total: $1556.95
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-08-07 00:05 EDT-0400
I guess by "upgrade" I just meant buying a new PC. My budget is $1200-1800, I can go higher (like up to $3k) if I need to but that is what I would prefer. I have no interest in putting it together myself, but I know from asking previously that some places will now build it for you so long as you buy all the parts through them. I am in the US.
Mostly what I want is something that will handle games on ultra settings and allow me to record and process videos for youtube (I use Dxtory for recording, Sony Vegas for editing, then Handbrake for compression). Anything that would improve rendering times would be great too, so if anyone uses their PC for that purpose please let me know your set-up.
The old computer's specs if you still want them are as follows, my friend picked out the parts and I got it through Maingear, I think it's 3 or 4 years old.
Operating System
Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit SP1
CPU
Intel Core i5 3570K @ 3.40GHz
Ivy Bridge 22nm Technology
RAM
16.0 GB Dual-Channel DDR3 @ 800MHz (10-10-10-27)
Motherboard
ASUSTeK COMPUTER INC. P8Z77-V LK (LGA1155)
Graphics
ASUS PB238 (1920x1080@60Hz)
NVIDIA GeForce GTX 660 Ti
Hard Drives
932GB Seagate ST1000DM003-9YN162 ATA Device (SATA)
Optical Drives
YJG 6R81INKH SCSI CdRom Device
Optiarc DVD RW AD-7261S ATA Device
Audio
NVIDIA Virtual Audio Device (Wave Extensible) (WDM)
I'm in NZ, so maybe easier to say about 1000USD max, excluding GPU and HDD (and PSU, Case). It's less the budget and specific part selection and more the case constraints/future proofing between the three that I'm having difficulty with.
After that talk about spending like Smokey and now you're gonna cheap out on the RAM? Get some 2800/3000MHz RAM and don't hold back your Skylake processor.
http://www.gamestar.de/hardware/pro..._i7_6700k,924,3234508,3.html#spielebenchmarks
http://www.hardocp.com/article/2015/08/05/intel_skylake_core_i76700k_ipc_overclocking_review/6
http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/core_i7_6700k_processor_review_desktop_skylake,14.html
Your PC is still very good, performance-wise you don't stand to gain very much from upgrading to Skylake. All you need is a new graphics card (AMD is preferred for Sony Vegas) and maybe an SSD if you like. As far as I know, NCIXUS will do assembly (including warranty for a $50 fee) if you buy the parts from them but if you have another retailer in mind, say so.
CreepingFear
Member
After that talk about spending like Smokey and now you're gonna cheap out on the RAM? Get some 2800/3000MHz RAM and don't hold back your Skylake processor.
http://www.gamestar.de/hardware/pro..._i7_6700k,924,3234508,3.html#spielebenchmarks
http://www.hardocp.com/article/2015/08/05/intel_skylake_core_i76700k_ipc_overclocking_review/6
http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/core_i7_6700k_processor_review_desktop_skylake,14.html
Your PC is still very good, performance-wise you don't stand to gain very much from upgrading to Skylake. All you need is a new graphics card (AMD is preferred for Sony Vegas) and maybe an SSD if you like. As far as I know, NCIXUS will do assembly (including warranty for a $50 fee) if you buy the parts from them but if you have another retailer in mind, say so.
Okay, Okay. I was kinding of joking about the Smokey thing. I can't go higher than $300 for memory.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 82.5 CFM CPU Cooler ($93.04 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Asus Z170-DELUXE ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($319.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws 4 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($299.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 Pro Series 512GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($249.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital BLACK SERIES 4TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($201.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Fractal Design Define R5 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($122.98 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: SeaSonic Platinum 860W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($183.98 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Pro OEM (64-bit) ($139.99 @ Directron)
Total: $1611.95
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-08-07 00:33 EDT-0400
Green Card
Member
I have RAM, CPU cooler, Case, SSD/HDD, and PSU out of the way. I know I want a i5-6600k but I'm at a loss to which mobo I should get to go with it without reviews to check. Right now I'm looking at MSI Z170A Krait Gaming and ASUS Z170-K. What are the differences between these boards?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130868
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813132570&cm_re=z170-k-_-13-132-570-_-Product
I like how the MSI board looks so I might just go with that.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130868
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813132570&cm_re=z170-k-_-13-132-570-_-Product
I like how the MSI board looks so I might just go with that.
Kinda late reply but you can click on different games on top of the graph to show their respective results. My point is, if you get high end skylake and high end graphics card, then there is definitely a benefit in getting faster DDR4 memory.
Ecto311
Member
She's 5 and likes blue. Mostly something different than the silver or black block look of most cases.
Shining Sunshine
Banned
Bought my Sapphire Tri-X Fury.
Still need CPU, Mobo, RAM, maybe CPU cooling.
I'm not OCing, so do I really need a CPU cooling solution? If so, which would be good?
Still need CPU, Mobo, RAM, maybe CPU cooling.
I'm not OCing, so do I really need a CPU cooling solution? If so, which would be good?
Fellow 980 ti Classy owner. Enjoy it! Great card. Don't be afraid to go into LN2 (bios) mode. It is more stable for overclocking even though I am on air. Also, the green light on the top of the card goes red... which is less clashing for most system color schemes (trite, I know). There are some high voltage bioses out there but they aren't really practical unless you are just benching or on water.
I would also definitely get a fan for the side panel vent and maybe the vent on the bottom of the case. This thing produces and dissipates a ton of heat. I have the R4 w/window and with the side panel on there is a ~5-7c increase in temps.
Here are my final overclocks (75% ASIC):
NZ prices being what they are (often overpriced compared to US prices), it's better to approach this by looking at local (for you) prices and retailers. Also, parts availability seems to vary by region. No point in recommending something you can't actually buy. By $1000 USD, you mean you have $1500 NZD to spend, right?
Do you have any local stores you prefer to order from? I can take a look through them to build up a parts list if you like.
Well if you're starting to run into budget constraints, you could always scale something back..
It's hard to say because of the lack of reviews available. MSI also doesn't even have a product page available for their Krait model. I mean there's a link but it's dead, and has been dead for about two days.
Anyway, from what I can gather (mostly from this Anandtech article), the Krait is MSI's cheaper model that supports SLI, M.2, and has an Intel ethernet controller and ALC1150 audio, which is a pretty good feature set. However, it does lack USB 3.1 and USB type C. Better audio and ethernet systems, but no new USB tech.
According to the official specifications, the Z170-K appears to be the cheaper competing model that Asus offers. Compared to the Krait, the Z170-K does have USB 3.1 and USB type C but features cheaper and lower end subsystems like ALC887 audio and Realtek ethernet. Yes for the latest USB tech, but has cheaper audio and ethernet. Also doesn't support SLI, but it still has M.2 support.
I guess it'll come down to looks and whether you want the newer USB tech. The audio and ethernet subsystems being cheaper on the Asus motherboard honestly aren't that big a deal, but if you value more reliable systems, Intel is the better choice for ethernet, preferable over Realtek or Killer ethernet chipsets.
Depends on the rest of your parts, like the processor and what case you have. Usually even a cheap heatsink should do wonders for temperature and noise over stock heatsinks. You don't have to spend more than $50, our usual go-to recommendation is the Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo (<$30), but any similar cooler should do.
So my friend and I are trying to play GTA V together but every 30 minutes my friend gets a black screen crash. Is this a known problem with the 390x?
His specs
i5 4690k
ASUS Z97-E
MSI 390x
8GB Corsair Vengeance
EVGA SuperNOVA 650w
He's on Windows 10, so maybe that has something to do with it.
His specs
i5 4690k
ASUS Z97-E
MSI 390x
8GB Corsair Vengeance
EVGA SuperNOVA 650w
He's on Windows 10, so maybe that has something to do with it.
Shining Sunshine
Banned
Hmm I already have it in my part picker. I just put it there because it was top popularity.
I was thinking of getting those liquid cooled things, but I guess I can just go with this nice value cooler.
Can I ask a related question? Why is my system reserve partition on my D: drive? My Windows is on my C: drive, a 120GB SSD. My D is a 1TB HDD just for steam games and general storage. Does it matter? I'm especially thinking for backup/restore purposes as I'm only backing up the C: drive at the moment.
6700K delidded
http://www.overclock.net/t/1568357/skylake-delidded
Once Intel stopped soldering the IHS and using shitty TIM we have seen this time and time again.
(Note X99, X79, etc CPUs are soldered to the IHS)
http://www.overclock.net/t/1568357/skylake-delidded
Once Intel stopped soldering the IHS and using shitty TIM we have seen this time and time again.
(Note X99, X79, etc CPUs are soldered to the IHS)
Man... I wish I had the balls to delid a CPU. That temperature change is massive.
Yep. You'll likely want to do a fresh install of your OS as well to avoid any other weird complications that can arise.
Windows being dumb, just right click system reserved partition, change drive letter, remove drive letter. Repeat to the other drives except now assign the drive letters you want.
For backup purposes, depends what your doing, for personal files just backup C. For a full recovery in case the system is totally destroyed you would image the system using something like clonezilla, that would create an image of the OS drive including all partitions. Restoring the image would result in a fully bootable system replicating the state of the system at which point it was imaged.
I really can't help stop messing with my PC.
Just bought a $210 Samsung SM951 256GB PCIe 3.0 x4 SSD for OS because it's faster than my current Raid 0 2x256GB Samsung 850 Pro setup. Doubtful, I am going to notice any difference.
Even though I have a giant size air cooler, I also bought a $140 Corsair Hydro Series H110i GTX basically for looks.
Just bought a $210 Samsung SM951 256GB PCIe 3.0 x4 SSD for OS because it's faster than my current Raid 0 2x256GB Samsung 850 Pro setup. Doubtful, I am going to notice any difference.
Even though I have a giant size air cooler, I also bought a $140 Corsair Hydro Series H110i GTX basically for looks.
Headsteyker
Member
So guys what do you think about this ram for skylake? Probably a Asus Z170-A.
http://www.bpm-power.com/mobit/product/1492506
http://www.bpm-power.com/mobit/product/1492506
Go for it. I use Corsair Vengeance DDR4 on a X99 platform and never had any issues.
Have you looked at the BitFenix Prodigy M (microATX) or the BitFenix Prodigy (mini-ITX)? They come in different colours, including blue, and aren't quite as boxy.
To those building Skylake machines, anyone going for 32GB of ram?
I know that I need at least 16GB and I should get DDR4-3000 or faster to maximize my use of the architecture (leaning towards 3200 as the gains past that are small and super expensive), but somewhat agonizing on rather I'd use 32gb and if it's worth jumping for that over 16GB
I do like to leave my web browser open in the background during games, and I want my PC to have enough RAM to last until my next build (probably 5+ years away).
Think it's worth the extra cost?
I wish I could just buy 8GB x2 and then upgrade to x4 if I feel the need but all ram appears to be sold in 4x8 or 4x4 for the most part
At least in the specs I need it in for Skylake
I know that I need at least 16GB and I should get DDR4-3000 or faster to maximize my use of the architecture (leaning towards 3200 as the gains past that are small and super expensive), but somewhat agonizing on rather I'd use 32gb and if it's worth jumping for that over 16GB
I do like to leave my web browser open in the background during games, and I want my PC to have enough RAM to last until my next build (probably 5+ years away).
Think it's worth the extra cost?
I wish I could just buy 8GB x2 and then upgrade to x4 if I feel the need but all ram appears to be sold in 4x8 or 4x4 for the most part
At least in the specs I need it in for SkylakeHow many open tabs are we talking about here? 32GB of RAM is overkill for just about anyone that isn't doing some sort of rendering, video or audio-editing, or VM work. 16GB should serve you fine unless you have like hundreds of tabs open in your browser.
This is gonna be top tier machine. Outside of the processor you have a faster machine than I. I'm still on X79. Congrats! Enjoy while i am on my little break
Well, certainly not hundreds of tabs. Basically i want enough ram to not have to think about closing programs during games unless it's a CPU intensive app of some kind.
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