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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 1. Read the OP and RISE ABOVE FORGED PRECISION SCIENCE

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harz-marz

Member
Not quite enough to run games at 4K or 1080p? Or do you not take a hit scaling to 1080p?

It is great at 1080P! Not sure about the scaling on a 4K screen...

But I'd say it isn't powerful enough to be able to run most modern games at 4K @ 60fps... it will run games like Bioshock Infinite, COD: Advanced Warefare etc at 60fps.

Depends if you want 60fps or are happy with 30. If the latter, then the card will be sufficient.
 

mturco

Member
It is great at 1080P! Not sure about the scaling on a 4K screen...

But I'd say it isn't powerful enough to be able to run most modern games at 4K... it will run games like Bioshock Infinite, COD: Advanced Warefare etc at 60fps.

Depends if you want 60fps or are happy with 30. If the latter, then the card will be sufficient.

Ok sounds like I'll be ok. Or if I decide I can't handle it I'll put some money down lol.

Anyway, anyone have recommendations for specific 4K monitors then? Or can comment on how bad the input lag is on some of them?
 

Havel

Member
Shit, so my 3770k is on its last legs. What do you guys think should I upgrade to?

Skylake?
Haswell-E?
Or maybe just a 4790k?

Price is not really a problem.
 
Ive just upgraded to 16GB DDR3 from 8GB, funny thing, total RAM usage didnt even change in GTA V, still using about 6.5GB with about 8 chrome tabs open.

32 and even 16 GB is probably overkill for RAM when it comes to gaming in most cases. I do other things as well such as video editing and encoding and a billion google and firefox tabs. There's no such thing as overkill as far as I'm concerned.
 

vocab

Member
Can someone educate me on HDD's for a sec.

I'm currently on a WD640Black which is a sata 2 drive, and almost 4-5 years old. The access time on it is 12-13 MS with slow as shit read speeds. I'm looking to buy a sata 3 HDD, and the WD1TBblue is $52 bucks, and is better/almost the same as the WD1TBblack which is $70. However, the access time is slightly slower (like 14-15). The read speeds on the sata 3 blue is 50-10MB/s better than the drive I have. Is the drive having a slightly slower access speed noticeable? Or will the higher read speeds compensate?

.
 

LilJoka

Member
Can someone educate me on HDD's for a sec.

I'm currently on a WD640Black which is a sata 2 drive, and almost 4-5 years old. The access time on it is 12-13 MS with slow as shit read speeds. I'm looking to buy a sata 3 HDD, and the WD1TBblue is $52 bucks, and is better/almost the same as the WD1TBblack which is $70. However, the access time is slightly slower (like 14-15). The read speeds on the sata 3 blue is 50-10MB/s better than the drive I have. Is the drive having a slightly slower access speed noticeable? Or will the higher read speeds compensate?

.

SATA2/3 is not the reason for HDD progression. HDDs are not fast enough to saturate SATA 2 yet. Reason for faster HDDs usually more dense storage space and therefore reduction of platters.

Stop looking at the performance numbers for HDDs, they perform almost identically in the same storage size.

Hitachi or Toshiba is recommended, and look for drives with 1TB platters.
 
What are some good MicroATX cases? Looking at the Bitfenix Prodigy M which I'm a fan of. What do you guys think? Anything that may be coming out in the future will do as well as I'm not planning to buy soon.
 

LilJoka

Member
What are some good MicroATX cases? Looking at the Bitfenix Prodigy M which I'm a fan of. What do you guys think? Anything that may be coming out in the future will do as well as I'm not planning to buy soon.

Try Fractal Design, Corsair, Silverstone variants, filter for matx.
 
Ordered my RAM.

Can anyone figure out the differences between the Asus Z170-Deluxe and the Asus Z170 ROG Maximus Hero VIII?

The offerings look pretty much the same, but the Deluxe costs $100 more.
 
I tried shadowplay for the first time.
As I tabbed out of my game suddenly for a few seconds the gpu made a loud coilwhine whistling noise.
Is this shit normal?

I heard the coilwhine before in 3d mark in that stupid mobile test where you get like 1800 fps, but never outside of that.

This gpu does not inspire much confidence.
 
Ahh that's fine. I don't have to go Skylake. I really won't need any of the new feature sets for years.

This is my current setup, minus the mobo and cpu. I replaced those with the parts I intend to purchase. The parts I have are not on PC Part Picker.

After getting a Vive I will see how badly I need to upgrade my GPU and go from there.

Also, thanks for all the help! You do a great job with this thread and are very informative!

You can save money on motherboard, memory and CPU cost going for a 4790K build rather than a 6700K. Both perform almost identically in real-world usage.

The 'future compatibility' perk of Skylake only makes sense if you plan to upgrade your CPU after a year or so. But who makes a system only to upgrade the CPU after a year to a new Z170 compatible processor. Buy the 4790K now for cheaper, upgrade in 3/4 years your whole system then.
 

vocab

Member
I tried shadowplay for the first time.
As I tabbed out of my game suddenly for a few seconds the gpu made a loud coilwhine whistling noise.
Is this shit normal?

I heard the coilwhine before in 3d mark in that stupid mobile test where you get like 1800 fps, but never outside of that.

This gpu does not inspire much confidence.

Probably normal. I'm not sure why you would get that during an alt tab though. Maybe its recording the desktop at high framerate? I don't know.
 
You can save money on motherboard, memory and CPU cost going for a 4790K build rather than a 6700K. Both perform almost identically in real-world usage.

The 'future compatibility' perk of Skylake only makes sense if you plan to upgrade your CPU after a year or so. But who makes a system only to upgrade the CPU after a year to a new Z170 compatible processor. Buy the 4790K now for cheaper, upgrade in 3/4 years your whole system then.

Eh, that kind of thinking, you're always going to go for the tail end of the chipset life and always upgrading in 4 year cycle.

Imagine 3/4 years later, you just socket the latest CPU in LGA 1151 and be done with it. Save far more for 8 years than rehauling your system in 4 years because you went LGA 1150 chipset.

You really only save $30-50 on the CPU, $10 on Mobo, and nothing on RAM because DDR4 prices are dropping fast. I found a few DDR4 sales that matched or were cheaper than DDR3 equivalent in the past month.
 

kuroshiki

Member
Hi duders.

I wanted to have gaming pc but too lazy to buy separate parts and putting them together.

So i purchased dell xps 8700 and gtx 970 with ssd.

Xps 8700 $420

I5 4460
12gb ddr3
480w power
1tb hdd

Gtx 970 $240

240 gb ssd $60

Total $720


I think this is pretty decent config for money but i would like to have advice before return period is up. Thanks.
 
I couldn't wait. I ordered everything but the i5 chip. Looks like I'll be part of the pc clan soon!! So I hear mobas are pretty popular, huh?
;)
 

kennah

Member
Hi duders.

I wanted to have gaming pc but too lazy to buy separate parts and putting them together.

So i purchased dell xps 8700 and gtx 970 with ssd.

Xps 8700 $420

I5 4460
12gb ddr3
480w power
1tb hdd

Gtx 970 $240

240 gb ssd $60

Total $720


I think this is pretty decent config for money but i would like to have advice before return period is up. Thanks.
That's a pretty good deal.

All you skylake upgraders, I wtb a cheap 3770 or 3770k
 
Thanks guys.

This is probably somewhere in this thread or maybe it's not the problem I think it might be, but the SSD drive listed in the builds is 2.5", the Crucial BX100

How do I use that in my desktop PC? Do I need any special wires or converter?

Thinking of just going 120GB SSD for windows, photoshop, artrage, etc, and then just using a 1TB drive for everything else. Can always get more harddrives later for storage if I need it.
 

kennah

Member
Thanks guys.

This is probably somewhere in this thread or maybe it's not the problem I think it might be, but the SSD drive listed in the builds is 2.5", the Crucial BX100

How do I use that in my desktop PC? Do I need any special wires or converter?

Thinking of just going 120GB SSD for windows, photoshop, artrage, etc, and then just using a 1TB drive for everything else. Can always get more harddrives later for storage if I need it.
It behaves exactly the same as a hard drive, just faster. Same cables and everything.
 
I'll post this in here too because maybe someone has a work around:

The DSR+GSync+SLI limitation has become very frustrating and it is even worse now because at one point I was able to enable all 3 and as long as I was playing at the native resolution, Gsync would be enabled but if I wanted to downsample, I could change it to a DSR resolution and all it would do is disable Gsync. Now they've blocked DSR completely if you have Gsync and SLI enabled so I don't even have the chance to pick and choose what I want. This will be less of an issue when I replace my 1080p monitor with a 1440p monitor but for now, I'm playing Alien Isolation with a machine that is getting 250-450 fps when I completely uncap the framerate at 1080p. What a waste.
 
Hey y'all,

I've been out of the high-end PC game for a few years now. I last built a PC in 2007, which worked great for a quite a while, but I've been using a laptop for all my gaming needs most recently. It's generally served me well, but it's also definitely on it's way out, so I'm thinking I need to build a new PC quite soon.

I'm not looking to spend an extravagant amount of money (certainly no more than $1000), yet I still want something quite capable. So - any suggestions?
 

SRG01

Member
Shit, so my 3770k is on its last legs. What do you guys think should I upgrade to?

Skylake?
Haswell-E?
Or maybe just a 4790k?

Price is not really a problem.

It depends on your usage case. The 4790k is more than sufficient 99% of the time, unless you're doing some crazy, process-intensive things.
 

Gruso

Member
I'll post this in here too because maybe someone has a work around:

The DSR+GSync+SLI limitation has become very frustrating and it is even worse now because at one point I was able to enable all 3 and as long as I was playing at the native resolution, Gsync would be enabled but if I wanted to downsample, I could change it to a DSR resolution and all it would do is disable Gsync. Now they've blocked DSR completely if you have Gsync and SLI enabled so I don't even have the chance to pick and choose what I want. This will be less of an issue when I replace my 1080p monitor with a 1440p monitor but for now, I'm playing Alien Isolation with a machine that is getting 250-450 fps when I completely uncap the framerate at 1080p. What a waste.
Is using GeDoSaTo an option for downsampling in the meantime?
 

Evo X

Member
I'm coming for dat throne Smokey! lol

dysKAXi.jpg
 
Just to answer my own question on the difference between the two Asus mobos (Deluxe vs Maximus Hero VIII), Asus has a nice comparison chart.

http://www.asus.com/us/site/motherboards/Z170/compare/

The biggest difference is that the Z170-Deluxe has wifi, but here's the list of notable difference:

Deluxe:
  • Wi-Fi 3x3 802.11ac
  • 1 more PCIe slot
  • 1 more M.2 ssd slot (using an included Hyper Kit U.2)
  • 4 more USB 3.1 Type A ports

Maximus Hero VIII
  • Higher Memory Frequency compatibility (3600+ MHz vs Deluxe's 3466)
  • 2 more SATA ports (1 of them is a SATA Express)
  • 1 more Rear USB 3.0 and 3 more Rear USB 2.0 (since Deluxe has more USB 3.1)
  • ROG extras (ROG RAMCache, OC Panel Support, Front Base Support, SSD Secure Erase)

I guess the price difference is probably because of the wifi, the included hyper kit, and more USB 3.1 ports. Not really worth the extra $100 since they both seem premium anyway.
 

Smokey

Member
I'm coming for dat throne Smokey! lol

dysKAXi.jpg

USUIoP8.gif


Alright, here's the build right now. Anyone care to critique?

Not sure on the case. Could use some suggestions.

The CRYORIG R1 Ultimate also seems to be the best CPU cooler out there in terms of aesthetics and performance, but would I be better suited going with an AIO water solution to clean up the look a bit?

Also note that some of the parts like GPU, KB/M, Sound Card, are carrying over from my current PC.

http://pcpartpicker.com/p/rBTJ99

I guess it depends on how often do you think you'll be messing around inside your PC? I've gone with AIOs since I started building. They just look cleaner and make life easier when messing around inside your PC. If you have a windowed case, you probably care a bit about the inside of your beast. If so AIO fits the bill perfectly. I know LilJoka doesn't like them...but I haven't had any issues with them.

Ok sounds like I'll be ok. Or if I decide I can't handle it I'll put some money down lol.

Anyway, anyone have recommendations for specific 4K monitors then? Or can comment on how bad the input lag is on some of them?

Wait for the ROG Swift PG27AQ 4K, IPS, Gsync panel

I'm gonna buy my first keyboard in a decade now, and it should go along perfectly with my PC that I build last year. Right now, it is between the Logitech G910 Orion Spark (which unfortunately seems to have bad buttons with inconsistent angles), Logitech G510S (which doesn't seem to have mechanical keys) and Corsair K70 (which unfortunately don't have any G/macro buttons, which the K95 have but it isn't out here yet).

I've messed around with that G910 Spark in a store. The keys just felt weird. I'd definitely go mechanical though. From what you listed go with Corsair IMO.

32 and even 16 GB is probably overkill for RAM when it comes to gaming in most cases. I do other things as well such as video editing and encoding and a billion google and firefox tabs. There's no such thing as overkill as far as I'm concerned.

I've had 16GB DDR3 throughout various iterations of my builds. It's been more than enough when encoding, streaming, gaming etc.
 

LordAlu

Member
I was told to come back when the skylake CPUs were announced so here are my requirements again:

Hope one of you lovely UK gaffers can spec me a build :)
So with the new stuff out you're looking at something like this:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor (£185.99 @ Ebuyer)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler (£24.95 @ Aria PC)
Motherboard: Asus Z170-P ATX LGA1151 Motherboard (£94.99 @ Novatech)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-3000 Memory (£55.78 @ Ebuyer)
Storage: Crucial M500 M.2 120GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive (£39.98 @ Novatech)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (£39.00 @ Amazon UK)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 980 4GB STRIX Video Card (£359.59 @ Overclockers.co.uk)
Case: Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case (£49.19 @ Aria PC)
Power Supply: Fractal Design Tesla R2 650W 80+ Gold Certified ATX Power Supply (£49.99 @ Scan.co.uk)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) (£79.99)
Monitor: AOC Q2778VQE 60Hz 27.0" Monitor (£233.50 @ Ebuyer)
Total: £1212.95
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-08-09 08:33 BST+0100

Some notes:
  • I've included Windows with this build at its normal retail price of £80 - you can get this cheaper through Reddit, bringing the price under budget, if this is something you'd like to do.
  • 1440p monitor is in there too but that might be a pick for yourself to make depending on what you want.
  • If you do buy Windows from Reddit, I'd suggest upgrading the board to the Z170-A which has been getting really good reviews, or changing the case to something you'd prefer.
 

RGM79

Member
Ahh that's fine. I don't have to go Skylake. I really won't need any of the new feature sets for years.

This is my current setup, minus the mobo and cpu. I replaced those with the parts I intend to purchase. The parts I have are not on PC Part Picker.

After getting a Vive I will see how badly I need to upgrade my GPU and go from there.

Also, thanks for all the help! You do a great job with this thread and are very informative!

There are better motherboards and RAM to choose from for about the same amount of money.

The Asus Z97-E ($92 after $20 rebate) is a bit better than the entry level Gigabyte GA-Z97M-D3H and since you have an ATX case, you shouldn't go for a smaller mATX motherboard when ATX will fit and generally offer more expansion options (even if you don't end up using it, having the options open is nice).

Also, higher speed RAM is available for a good price. This 2x8GB kit of PNY 1866MHz RAM is $85, while this 2x8GB kit of G.Skill 2133MHz RAM is $92. While it's arguable whether you'll actually notice the difference of higher speed RAM in regular day-to-day use, it is known that in a few certain situations or for some programs that higher speed RAM can result in a small improvement. Given that it costs just a few dollars difference, you might as well opt for the "slightly faster in some situations" RAM.

It's alright if you don't make the changes, functionally the Gigabyte motherboard and 1600MHz RAM will do just fine.

I want to spend in the $100 to $200 range. I just want to keep a 1920 X 1200 resolution with as many bells and whistle graphic options that make sense. I also want to make sure that it performs at least as well or better than my current Radeon HD 6950 or the upgrade doesn't make much sense

After looking at some passmark scores, I'm thinking about this card EVGA 02G-P4-2962-KR GeForce GTX 960 .Would anyone have any different recommendations for that price point ($190)

I recommend you look at a graphics card with 4GB of VRAM. At the very limit of your price range, the R9 380 or GTX 960 is your best bet to reach that level of performance, both are roughly on par and represent a sizable improvement over your old 6950. There's the Gigabyte GTX 960 4GB for $203 after $20 rebate, it also comes with a free redeemable code for MGSV:TPP if that interests you. If not, you could resell the code and that would lower the overall cost of the card. The AMD option would be the R9 380. This Powercolor R9 380 PCS+ is $224 and includes a $20 promotional gift card, so it is not as good a deal as the GTX 960, but I felt like including the AMD option for your knowledge anyway.

So with the new stuff out you're looking at something like this:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor (£185.99 @ Ebuyer)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler (£24.95 @ Aria PC)
Motherboard: Asus Z170-P ATX LGA1151 Motherboard (£94.99 @ Novatech)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-3000 Memory (£55.78 @ Ebuyer)
Storage: Crucial M500 M.2 120GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive (£39.98 @ Novatech)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (£39.00 @ Amazon UK)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 980 4GB STRIX Video Card (£359.59 @ Overclockers.co.uk)
Case: Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case (£49.19 @ Aria PC)
Power Supply: Fractal Design Tesla R2 650W 80+ Gold Certified ATX Power Supply (£49.99 @ Scan.co.uk)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) (£79.99)
Monitor: AOC Q2778VQE 60Hz 27.0" Monitor (£233.50 @ Ebuyer)
Total: £1212.95
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-08-09 08:33 BST+0100

Some notes:
  • I've included Windows with this build at its normal retail price of £80 - you can get this cheaper through Reddit, bringing the price under budget, if this is something you'd like to do.
  • 1440p monitor is in there too but that might be a pick for yourself to make depending on what you want.
  • If you do buy Windows from Reddit, I'd suggest upgrading the board to the Z170-A which has been getting really good reviews, or changing the case to something you'd prefer.

Not a bad build, but dropping down to the GTX 970 would free up more money for something like 16GB of DDR4 RAM and be better overall for price-to-performance. I wonder how well that M.2 drive performs, seems to be a very good price. Excellent advice at the end, by the way. Let me just add my usual disclaimer for reddit license keys:

Windows 7/8.1 licenses can be bought from reddit's microsoftsoftwareswap for $20 USD or less. These are most likely legitimate keys that are resold from educational programs like Technet or MSDNAA/Dreamspark. However, you are dealing with a person instead of a retailer, and informal Windows keys sales are not approved by Microsoft and probably breaking some licensing agreement, but it's not illegal. The risks involved are that the person could be selling you a fake or used key, or that Microsoft may refuse to give you support and/or deactivate your license and refuse to reactivate it. That's not very likely, usually it only happens if the seller and their list of sold keys was caught. We've had people here using those keys without issues for a long time and others who say Microsoft deactivated their key after several months. These keys should be upgradeable to Windows 10, but confirm with the seller to be sure, of course.​
 

LordAlu

Member
Not a bad build, but dropping down to the GTX 970 would free up more money for something like 16GB of DDR4 RAM and be better overall for price-to-performance. I wonder how well that M.2 drive performs, seems to be a very good price. Excellent advice at the end, by the way. Let me just add my usual disclaimer for reddit license keys:

Windows 7/8.1 licenses can be bought from reddit's microsoftsoftwareswap for $20 USD or less. These are most likely legitimate keys that are resold from educational programs like Technet or MSDNAA/Dreamspark. However, you are dealing with a person instead of a retailer, and informal Windows keys sales are not approved by Microsoft and probably breaking some licensing agreement, but it's not illegal. The risks involved are that the person could be selling you a fake or used key, or that Microsoft may refuse to give you support and/or deactivate your license and refuse to reactivate it. That's not very likely, usually it only happens if the seller and their list of sold keys was caught. We've had people here using those keys without issues for a long time and others who say Microsoft deactivated their key after several months. These keys should be upgradeable to Windows 10, but confirm with the seller to be sure, of course.
Thanks. I'd have loved to put one of the Samsung 951 drives in but as I was using the 980 I didn't have the budget room as they're significantly more expensive.

In all honesty I must admit that originally I did have a GTX 970 in there, which would still do well for 1440p at a decent framerate, but I opted for the 980 to give it that little extra oomph. From your advice regarding the 970 and having read up a little bit more on some other people's personal experiences with 1440p, I agree it would be the better choice.

Assuming Skii bought Windows from Reddit, I'd switch a few things round like this:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor (£185.99 @ Ebuyer)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler (£24.95 @ Aria PC)
Motherboard: Asus Z170-A ATX LGA1151 Motherboard (£117.99 @ Ebuyer)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-3000 Memory (£55.78 @ Ebuyer)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-3000 Memory (£55.78 @ Ebuyer)
Storage: Samsung SM951 256GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive (£119.10 @ Scan.co.uk)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (£39.00 @ Amazon UK)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 970 4GB STRIX Video Card (£256.99 @ Amazon UK)
Case: NZXT S340 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case (£52.00 @ Aria PC)
Power Supply: Fractal Design Tesla R2 650W 80+ Gold Certified ATX Power Supply (£49.99 @ Scan.co.uk)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) (£20.00)
Monitor: AOC Q2778VQE 60Hz 27.0" Monitor (£233.50 @ Ebuyer)
Total: £1211.07
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-08-09 09:04 BST+0100

Changes:
  • Upgraded motherboard to the ASUS Z170-A.
  • Now at 16GB DDR4 memory. I've used 4 x 4GB sticks - it would be better to go for 2 x 8GB sticks, but at the preferred speed of 3000MHz there's not much out there except G.Skill (which might interfere with the cooler), and the Corsair LPX ones aren't available yet.
  • Shiny fast Samsung 256GB SSD instead of the slower Crucial 120GB.
  • GTX 970 instead of GTX 980.
  • NZXT S340 case instead of Corsair 200R. Seems it was only £5 more :D
  • Windows cost reduced to £20.
 
Eh, that kind of thinking, you're always going to go for the tail end of the chipset life and always upgrading in 4 year cycle.

Imagine 3/4 years later, you just socket the latest CPU in LGA 1151 and be done with it. Save far more for 8 years than rehauling your system in 4 years because you went LGA 1150 chipset.

You really only save $30-50 on the CPU, $10 on Mobo, and nothing on RAM because DDR4 prices are dropping fast. I found a few DDR4 sales that matched or were cheaper than DDR3 equivalent in the past month.

This is incorrect. You can get the 4790K for at least $50 cheaper than the 6700K if you shop around, and you can make more of a saving on Z97 motherboards compared to the brand new Skylake Z170 boards. And there is no way that DDR4 costs the same as DDR3. You can still make a big saving on DDR3 sticks.

Anyway, in 3/4 years, if you want to, you'll upgrade your Skylake CPU, and add more memory, whilst keeping the rest of your components.

In 3/4 years on a 4790K build, you'll need to upgrade your CPU, memory, and of course you'll need a new mobo, whilst keeping the rest of your components. So there's little difference in cost stretched out over 3/4 years but the 4790K build allows you to save $150-200 in the here and now.
 
This is incorrect. You can get the 4790K for at least $50 cheaper than the 6700K if you shop around, and you can make more of a saving on Z97 motherboards compared to the brand new Skylake Z170 boards. And there is no way that DDR4 costs the same as DDR3. You can still make a big saving on DDR3 sticks.

Anyway, in 3/4 years, if you want to, you'll upgrade your Skylake CPU, and add more memory, whilst keeping the rest of your components.

In 3/4 years on a 4790K build, you'll need to upgrade your CPU, memory, and of course you'll need a new mobo, whilst keeping the rest of your components. So there's little difference in cost stretched out over 3/4 years but the 4790K build allows you to save $150-200 in the here and now.

I've been shopping around and I can easily find the price range I spoke on.

$150-200 doesn't equate the cost of RAM and Mobo if we're factoring that I will actually buy a new CPU.
 
I've been shopping around and I can easily find the price range I spoke on.

$150-200 doesn't equate the cost of RAM and Mobo if we're factoring that I will actually buy a new CPU.

Well I reckon you can make a decent saving building a Devil's Canyon system, if you have a smaller budget. And it will give you near identical performance to a Skylake build. But sure, Skylake is decent choice too if you can find the prices. I may list a comparative build for both to see the real cost difference myself.
 

SleazyC

Member
I guess it depends on how often do you think you'll be messing around inside your PC? I've gone with AIOs since I started building. They just look cleaner and make life easier when messing around inside your PC. If you have a windowed case, you probably care a bit about the inside of your beast. If so AIO fits the bill perfectly. I know LilJoka doesn't like them...but I haven't had any issues with them.
I disagree but only with the caveat that a custom loop can be very clean provided you put the time into it.

If you are using your standard tubing than yes you can have tubing flopping around all over the place, but with proper routing everything can be nice and tidy. Now if you go the route of acrylic tubing you can get some gorgeous loops that are really clean but that really requires a decent amount of planning and work. I plan to go acrylic for my next build and know it will require a good amount of work but I hope it pays off.
 
I reeeeally want to get a new monitor for MGSV. I want to get a ultrawide with G-Sync. Curved isn't necessary. Should I wait? I heard new ones are coming out.
 

mrklaw

MrArseFace
I reeeeally want to get a new monitor for MGSV. I want to get a ultrawide with G-Sync. Curved isn't necessary. Should I wait? I heard new ones are coming out.

X34 and X35 coming soon. 34" 21:9, either 2560x1080 or 3440x1440 with gsync. The higher res one limited to 100Hz and the lower one going to 144Hz I think?

Going to be expensive though - the higher res one rumoured to be £1000 (my AOC was half that, couldn't justify twice the price for gsync, will look again in a few years)
 

Evo X

Member
I guess it depends on how often do you think you'll be messing around inside your PC? I've gone with AIOs since I started building. They just look cleaner and make life easier when messing around inside your PC. If you have a windowed case, you probably care a bit about the inside of your beast. If so AIO fits the bill perfectly. I know LilJoka doesn't like them...but I haven't had any issues with them.

I just want to build this and not touch it for a while, so probably not going to be messing around too much inside. Maybe swapping GPUs every 2 years.

Which AIO do you recommend to cool this 8 core beast? Gonna try to go for a sizable overclock, in the range of 4.5Ghz.

Ryan C. gettin dat commission check

lol, for real. Probably the easiest sale he has ever made. Our conversation lasted about 3 seconds.

"Hi It's me Your Brother!"

:p

Hello brother! How are you? Did you get that birthday present I sent?

I wish I bought that instead of a 5930K. The one time I listen to GAF and kinda regret it.

Yeah, I feel like if you're going to go "enthusiast", just go balls out and get the best. The 6 core Haswells seemed like half measures to me, in the sense that they are just faster iterations of the the 980X Gulftown that we've had for over 5 years. At least the 5960x is something new and a noticeable jump forward in multi threaded tasks, being the first non Xeon Intel 8 core released for desktops. Hope it'll be a good investment for the next few years.
 
Wouldnt go for that CPU cooler, you want something with decent fast fans for the CPU, so when stress testing you can crank the fans up to take advantage of such a big heatsink. And then when using normally just run at very low speeds. Remember, a fan can go slower than its rating, but not faster! Edit looks like they have 1400-1700rpm fans, thats fine. Used to be lower.

Recommend the MSI GTX 970 instead of Asus, better power delivery circuitry, and also has excellent cooling. Plus MSI and Gigabyte 970's overclock the best.

Look at the Seasonic G Series PSU, or Coolermaster VS Series PSUs, forget about Corsair.

Not sure what that extra fan is for, anything will do, do not get caught up in the "fan" phase. In fact probably not even needed at all.

IMO NZXT is a humongous piece of plastic, so again not recommending. Check out mATX offerings like a Silverstone TJ08E. Similar money, no plastic. There are probably others i cant think of right now. Plastic with lots of crevices builds up dust that needs a toothbush etc to clean, you may prefer something with clean edges in the long term.

And again, think about mATX.

Luckily with this motherboard it's possible as it only supports DDR3 however, it's not usually possible with skylake motherboards expect some that support DDR3L modules.

Thank you for the replies.

I've put in a new case but I feel that ATX would be better than mATX because it would be easier to build into a bigger case. I've removed the case fan and worked out that I had to remove the DDR3 RAM to get DDR4 compatible boards. I found a PSU tier list a couple of pages back and used it to pick out a new PSU. It's from tier one on that list.

This is what I have now:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor (£283.87 @ CCL Computers)
CPU Cooler: be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 3 67.8 CFM Fluid Dynamic Bearing CPU Cooler (£60.23 @ Scan.co.uk)
Motherboard: Asus Z170-A ATX LGA1151 Motherboard (£117.99 @ Ebuyer)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory (£98.58 @ Aria PC)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (£73.37 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (£39.00 @ Amazon UK)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 970 4GB Twin Frozr V Video Card (£259.99 @ Aria PC)
Case: Fractal Design Define R5 w/Window (White) ATX Mid Tower Case (£84.83 @ CCL Computers)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA GS 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply (£64.99 @ Aria PC)
Total: £1082.85
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-08-09 12:28 BST+0100
 
So GAF for a 6600k and an Asus Z170-A,The CM 412s better than the 212? Or other nice cooler? Case phantheks pro :)
Also which PSU is better the evga supernova 650 GS or the coolermester v 750? No interest in sli
 
X34 and X35 coming soon. 34" 21:9, either 2560x1080 or 3440x1440 with gsync. The higher res one limited to 100Hz and the lower one going to 144Hz I think?

Going to be expensive though - the higher res one rumoured to be £1000 (my AOC was half that, couldn't justify twice the price for gsync, will look again in a few years)

Thanks for the info. I think I'll get the cheaper one
 

Maiden Voyage

Gold™ Member
There are better motherboards and RAM to choose from for about the same amount of money.

The Asus Z97-E ($92 after $20 rebate) is a bit better than the entry level Gigabyte GA-Z97M-D3H and since you have an ATX case, you shouldn't go for a smaller mATX motherboard when ATX will fit and generally offer more expansion options (even if you don't end up using it, having the options open is nice).

Also, higher speed RAM is available for a good price. This 2x8GB kit of PNY 1866MHz RAM is $85, while this 2x8GB kit of G.Skill 2133MHz RAM is $92. While it's arguable whether you'll actually notice the difference of higher speed RAM in regular day-to-day use, it is known that in a few certain situations or for some programs that higher speed RAM can result in a small improvement. Given that it costs just a few dollars difference, you might as well opt for the "slightly faster in some situations" RAM.

It's alright if you don't make the changes, functionally the Gigabyte motherboard and 1600MHz RAM will do just fine.

I already have the ram. I will definitely change out the motherboard, though. Thanks for the advice!
 

knitoe

Member
I just want to build this and not touch it for a while, so probably not going to be messing around too much inside. Maybe swapping GPUs every 2 years.

Which AIO do you recommend to cool this 8 core beast? Gonna try to go for a sizable overclock, in the range of 4.5Ghz.

Yeah, I feel like if you're going to go "enthusiast", just go balls out and get the best. The 6 core Haswells seemed like half measures to me, in the sense that they are just faster iterations of the the 980X Gulftown that we've had for over 5 years. At least the 5960x is something new and a noticeable jump forward in multi threaded tasks, being the first non Xeon Intel 8 core released for desktops. Hope it'll be a good investment for the next few years.

Supposedly, the Swiftech H220-X is the current best AIO. Personally, it's too showy for me so I am going to try the new Corsair H110i GTX. Unfortunately, now reviews for it so far.

Seeing how CPU performance advancement is at a snails pace, I would expect a 5960x for be good for many years. Definitely, in a few years, I will jump onto the 10-16 cores.
 

Stubo

Member
Supposedly, the Swiftech H220-X is the current best AIO. Personally, it's too showy for me so I am going to try the new Corsair H110i GTX. Unfortunately, now reviews for it so far.

Seeing how CPU performance advancement is at a snails pace, I would expect a 5960x for be good for many years. Definitely, in a few years, I will jump onto the 10-16 cores.
Is there a new GTX? Not the H110i GT? Well there's a H110i GT review here
 

harz-marz

Member
On PCpartpicker I am getting the following message:

– Gigabyte GA-X99-SLI ATX LGA2011-3 Motherboard has onboard USB 3.0 headers, but the Cooler Master HAF 912 ATX Mid Tower Case does not have front panel USB 3.0 ports.

I am thinking of upgrading my Asus P8Z68-V to the above motherboard. Does this mean they won't fit and I need a new case?

Argh! I'd have been as well buying a whole new PC than trying to upgrade my own piece by piece!
 
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