• Hey, guest user. Hope you're enjoying NeoGAF! Have you considered registering for an account? Come join us and add your take to the daily discourse.

"I Need a New PC!" 2016 Plus Ultra! HBM2, VR, 144Hz, and 4K for all!

Status
Not open for further replies.
OK GAF, tell me...

AMD Ryzen 1700 CPU ~£320
AMD RX 480 8GB GPU ~£215
Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX ~£150
Corsair Vengeance 2x8GB RAM ~£105
AMD B350 MoBo ~£100
Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB ~£88
WD Caviar Blue 1TB ~£42
EVGA 500W PSU ~£37

Total = ~£1057

Are these prices right? Is the cost of this build gonna change much in the coming year? Say if I wait 6 months? And is there any way to cut this down a bit (yet again, sorry!) without getting a shitty case? Here's a cut down version below, but it seems pretty underpowered for what is only a hundred n' fifty quid less? Am I doing something wrong?!

AMD Ryzen 1700 CPU ~£320
EVGA GeForce GTX 1050 Ti ~£150
NZXT H440 Mid tower ~£100
Corsair Vengeance 8GB RAM ~£64
AMD B350 MoBo ~£100
Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB ~£88
WD Caviar Blue 1TB ~£42
EVGA 500W PSU ~£37

Total = ~£901

Also a little help on motherboards - the B350 supports Ryzen, right? But ATX? mATX? Does either choice affect my build?

Hope you guys can help me clear some of these questions up! If it's best to wait/downgrade in specific places, let me know!
 
Übermatik;231078667 said:
....But ATX? mATX? Does either choice affect my build?

ATX for mid tower cases. mATX for smaller cases. Because mATX motherboard is smaller, it has less PCI/PCI Express slots than an ATX motherboard.
 

jediyoshi

Member
Thanks !

So the motherboard has nothing to do with max RAM frequency ? Only the processor does ?

It's dependent on the motherboard. Those ASUS boards in particular also support 7th gen AMD CPUs which is where the split in RAM limitations come in. I'm not very familiar with AMD so I can't help much further :p Glancing over other Ryzen boards, 3200 looks to generally be the upper limit.
 

The Chef

Member
This is a CPU fan i picked out: Good?

CPU: ntel Core i7-7700K
MOTHERBOARD: Asus ROG Strix Z270I Gaming
VIDEO CARD: EVGA GeForce GTX 1070 SC Black Edition
MEMORY: Corsair 2x8GB Vengeance LPX DDR4-3000 Black
SOLID-STATE DRIVE: Crucial MX300 525GB M.2
CASE: Silverstone SG13
FAN (OPTIONAL): Arctic F12 PWM 120mm Fan (Opt.)
POWER SUPPLY: Silverstone SX500-LG
CPU COOLER: Cryorig C7 CR-C7A Top Flow CPU Heatsink 47mm SFF Mini ITX
 

Invis

Member
Do mobo vendors have their own overclocking guides, or is everything universal for the most part, setting name wise? Looking for Kaby Lake OC guide, specifically for MSI Z270 boards.
 

LilJoka

Member
Do mobo vendors have their own overclocking guides, or is everything universal for the most part, setting name wise? Looking for Kaby Lake OC guide, specifically for MSI Z270 boards.

They sometimes have their own but generally it's all universal anyway. There will be little tweaks that might be vendor specific but those would be minor.
 

Necrovex

Member
Any particular thoughts on the Dell S2417DG 24-inch 165Hz G-Sync Gaming Monitor? I saw its 27 inch brother on Slickdeals, and I'm flirting with getting the 24 inch one on Amazon for $417 (after-tax). I just found out I'll have a few hundred dollars to put towards my computer when I return home, so I thought it'd be a good time to upgrade my monitor from 2010. Any expectations that I'll find a better deal on a Gsync monitor, or should I pull the trigger?

Edit: With Ryzen on the horizon, I am considering jumping on that train rather than the I-7. My understanding of Mobo is limited, so I am having a difficult time finding the right picking the right one. I'm expecting to buy a Nvidia 1070, and there are so many options to choose. I basically don't want to pass $1400 if at all possible.
 

pislit

Member
is there a good tn 144hz screen? im coming off a VA monitor so i cry everytime i use other people's monitor with that blue tint out of whack contrast tn panels. budget is 300 but i can stretch it out to 500 if there is nothig in the former's range.
 

Invis

Member
They sometimes have their own but generally it's all universal anyway. There will be little tweaks that might be vendor specific but those would be minor.

Alright, thanks.

I followed ASUS's and Gigabyte's guide, but still have some questions regarding some settings since I'm using MSI if anyone may know.

I did a rough OC of my 7700K to 4.8. Tried a really low override voltage of 1.2 to see if it would boot and it didn't. Set it to adaptive 1.27 and it's running fine so far. I haven't done any testing so far, but I'm just getting started.

Besides changing the multiplier to 48 and voltage to adaptive 1.27, nothing else was done. I remember when I OC'ed my 2500K years and years ago I had to do a lot more work. As long as I can find a good voltage with a high multiplier, do I need to worry about anything else? AVX? LLC? CStates? Fixed or Dynamic Mode? Ring Ratio? What does all of that mean and do I need to mess with it? QUESTIONS!

I also can't find any mention of AVX in the BIOS, does anyone know what MSI calls it or where it may be?
 

LilJoka

Member
Alright, thanks.

I followed ASUS's and Gigabyte's guide, but still have some questions regarding some settings since I'm using MSI if anyone may know.

I did a rough OC of my 7700K to 4.8. Tried a really low override voltage of 1.2 to see if it would boot and it didn't. Set it to adaptive 1.27 and it's running fine so far. I haven't done any testing so far, but I'm just getting started.

Besides changing the multiplier to 48 and voltage to adaptive 1.27, nothing else was done. I remember when I OC'ed my 2500K years and years ago I had to do a lot more work. As long as I can find a good voltage with a high multiplier, do I need to worry about anything else? AVX? LLC? CStates? Fixed or Dynamic Mode? Ring Ratio? What does all of that mean and do I need to mess with it? QUESTIONS!

I also can't find any mention of AVX in the BIOS, does anyone know what MSI calls it or where it may be?

Here's how I do things
Figure out LLC first:
Set manual vcore and medium level LLC.
Use Prime95 28.10 (with AVX flag set to disabled) to adjust LLC such that it closely matches the bios vcore but it's a bit lower.

Now do your rough OC with vcore and multiplier.

Then start finalising with longer tests and AVX enabled tests like latest prime95 or realbench.

You might have an AVX offset which might be useful if your hitting 5Ghz. Otherwise you should be fine.

Then move to Adaptive Vcore, which will let vcore scale with CPU freq and load.
Just set it such that the non AVX load vcore matches your earlier tests.

It's much simpler these days.

You can increase the CPU cache frequency but it hardly has any impact.

You'll need to tweak VDIMM, VCCIO and VCSSA for your RAM overclock over 2133mhz.


You can see the AVX option here
r_600x450.png


You'll likely need the latest bios.
 

Smokey

Member
I love how the one time I don't go EVGA for mu GPU, the 1080Ti releases shortly after and would've fit right into the Step-Up window.

FIGURES
 

Invis

Member
Here's how I do things
Figure out LLC first:
Set manual vcore and medium level LLC.
Use Prime95 28.10 (with AVX flag set to disabled) to adjust LLC such that it closely matches the bios vcore but it's a bit lower.

Now do your rough OC with vcore and multiplier.

Then start finalising with longer tests and AVX enabled tests like latest prime95 or realbench.

You might have an AVX offset which might be useful if your hitting 5Ghz. Otherwise you should be fine.

Then move to Adaptive Vcore, which will let vcore scale with CPU freq and load.
Just set it such that the non AVX load vcore matches your earlier tests.

It's much simpler these days.

You can increase the CPU cache frequency but it hardly has any impact.

You'll need to tweak VDIMM, VCCIO and VCSSA for your RAM overclock over 2133mhz.


You can see the AVX option here

You'll likely need the latest bios.

Thanks for the info dump.

I'm not seeing LLC anywhere in my BIOS and I've spent the last few minutes looking through just about every setting in there. According to that guide Sword posted from TweakTown below, it's called Vdroop here but I can't find that anywhere either. I have the MSI Z270 PC Mate.

I'm not familiar at all with AVX, but from some reading it looks like AVX is just a set of instructions the CPU goes through that generates much more heat than normal. Thus Intel made an offset in the BIOS to lower your clock speed whenever an AVX instruction is detected so you dont thermal throttle or overheat. Is all that correct? My goal is to hit 5GHz, so would a -3 offset be fine? I really only game on this PC, no rendering or encoding so I'm not sure if I'll even use AVX, wherever it's used.

I put my cache/ratio at 45.

Regarding VDIMM, VCCIO and VCSSA, you completely lost me there. I have 3200 RAM and I just have the default XMP profile on.
 
Alright, thanks.

I followed ASUS's and Gigabyte's guide, but still have some questions regarding some settings since I'm using MSI if anyone may know.

I did a rough OC of my 7700K to 4.8. Tried a really low override voltage of 1.2 to see if it would boot and it didn't. Set it to adaptive 1.27 and it's running fine so far. I haven't done any testing so far, but I'm just getting started.

Besides changing the multiplier to 48 and voltage to adaptive 1.27, nothing else was done. I remember when I OC'ed my 2500K years and years ago I had to do a lot more work. As long as I can find a good voltage with a high multiplier, do I need to worry about anything else? AVX? LLC? CStates? Fixed or Dynamic Mode? Ring Ratio? What does all of that mean and do I need to mess with it? QUESTIONS!

I also can't find any mention of AVX in the BIOS, does anyone know what MSI calls it or where it may be?

I found this guide to be very useful for understanding overclocking and voltages. It's very thorough and pretty much includes all the big MB manufacturers.

http://www.tweaktown.com/guides/7481/tweaktowns-ultimate-intel-skylake-overclocking-guide/index.html
 
Been waiting for the 1080 ti.

Announcement tomorrow for a release in March?

I don't care what it costs, I just want whatever version EVGA releases. Not a fan of founders edition cards.
 
Last week I posted about new hardware possibly being responsible for the death of two of my old HDD's.

I found out that the uefi bios/Win 10 are able to properly see the first HDD by first booting the computer with the HDD only hooked to the power cable.
Running Win 10 I then reconnect the mainboard cable, reboot and I can see all partitions of the HDD.
Anyone with an idea what could be the reason? Could this have to do with the mainboard after all?

Okay, for those interested, I found the reason:
Those two old HDD's can't handle Sata 6 Gb/s ports. At least for the newer one I could install a FW that adds Sata 6 Gb/s support.
 

LilJoka

Member
Thanks for the info dump.

I'm not seeing LLC anywhere in my BIOS and I've spent the last few minutes looking through just about every setting in there. According to that guide Sword posted from TweakTown below, it's called Vdroop here but I can't find that anywhere either. I have the MSI Z270 PC Mate.

I'm not familiar at all with AVX, but from some reading it looks like AVX is just a set of instructions the CPU goes through that generates much more heat than normal. Thus Intel made an offset in the BIOS to lower your clock speed whenever an AVX instruction is detected so you dont thermal throttle or overheat. Is all that correct? My goal is to hit 5GHz, so would a -3 offset be fine? I really only game on this PC, no rendering or encoding so I'm not sure if I'll even use AVX, wherever it's used.

I put my cache/ratio at 45.

Regarding VDIMM, VCCIO and VCSSA, you completely lost me there. I have 3200 RAM and I just have the default XMP profile on.

LLC - load line calibration
MSI_Z270-Gaming-M5_11_w_711.png


Yes, AVX is an instruction set, with adaptive vcore you can't control the extra vcore AVX demands which can cause temps to go too high. You have to test it, maybe you won't need an offset if the overall vcore for the OC is low. Start with 0 and then increase as needed. Forza Horizon 3 and CEMU emulator are the 2 things I know use AVX.

I don't use XMP since it's like CPU Auto OC Profile. It's taking a hammer to a nail approach, over volting.

Set VDIMM to 1.35v.
Set VCCSA and VCCIO to 1.05v to start with.
Set the Ram Freq to 3200
Set primary Ram timings as per your spec. At 3200mhz I'd aim for 15-15-38-2N.
 

Sheppard

Member
Hello PC Gaf. I was wondering if you could look over my list and let me know if I need anything more or take anything away? Thanks!

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($310.98 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H100i v2 70.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($89.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Asus Z170-PRO ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($173.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LED 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR4-2666 Memory ($236.97 @ Jet)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 1080 8GB GAMING X 8G Video Card ($634.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Corsair 750D Airflow Edition ATX Full Tower Case ($149.99 @ NCIX US)
Power Supply: Corsair 760W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($159.99 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Lite-On iHOS104-06 Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Drive
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($88.58 @ OutletPC)
Sound Card: Creative Labs Z PCIe 24-bit 96 KHz Sound Card ($96.88 @ OutletPC)
Case Fan: Corsair CO-9050017-WLED 66.4 CFM 140mm Fan ($13.30 @ OutletPC)
Case Fan: Corsair CO-9050017-WLED 66.4 CFM 140mm Fan ($13.30 @ OutletPC)
Case Fan: Corsair CO-9050017-WLED 66.4 CFM 140mm Fan ($13.30 @ OutletPC)
Case Fan: Corsair CO-9050017-WLED 66.4 CFM 140mm Fan ($13.30 @ OutletPC)
Case Fan: Corsair CO-9050017-WLED 66.4 CFM 140mm Fan ($13.30 @ OutletPC)
Fan Controller: BitFenix Recon (Black) Fan Controller ($32.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Total: $2041.84
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-02-27 18:45 EST-0500
 
Hello PC Gaf. I was wondering if you could look over my list and let me know if I need anything more or take anything away? Thanks!

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($310.98 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H100i v2 70.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($89.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Asus Z170-PRO ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($173.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LED 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR4-2666 Memory ($236.97 @ Jet)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 1080 8GB GAMING X 8G Video Card ($634.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Corsair 750D Airflow Edition ATX Full Tower Case ($149.99 @ NCIX US)
Power Supply: Corsair 760W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($159.99 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Lite-On iHOS104-06 Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Drive
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($88.58 @ OutletPC)
Sound Card: Creative Labs Z PCIe 24-bit 96 KHz Sound Card ($96.88 @ OutletPC)
Case Fan: Corsair CO-9050017-WLED 66.4 CFM 140mm Fan ($13.30 @ OutletPC)
Case Fan: Corsair CO-9050017-WLED 66.4 CFM 140mm Fan ($13.30 @ OutletPC)
Case Fan: Corsair CO-9050017-WLED 66.4 CFM 140mm Fan ($13.30 @ OutletPC)
Case Fan: Corsair CO-9050017-WLED 66.4 CFM 140mm Fan ($13.30 @ OutletPC)
Case Fan: Corsair CO-9050017-WLED 66.4 CFM 140mm Fan ($13.30 @ OutletPC)
Fan Controller: BitFenix Recon (Black) Fan Controller ($32.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Total: $2041.84
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-02-27 18:45 EST-0500

I'm mildly curious as to why the 6700k over a 7700k, if you're spending that much and buying new. Otherwise, wait for Ryzen, whether for a potentially better performing CPU, or to see how Intel responds in terms of potential price drops.
 

Celcius

°Temp. member
It's been a while since we had a week this exciting in tech. GTX 1080 Ti reveal tomorrow, Ryzen releases Thursday or Friday, and the Switch comes out Friday as well.
 

The Stealth Fox

Junior Member
Does anyone want to buy a M-ITX silverstone FTZ01 off me for $65? The major issue is that there are some minor scratches on the power button and on the case. I need to off load this case.

PM me if you're interested.
 

pa22word

Member
Does anyone know if the m2 Sandisc/Samsung m2s are really worth the heavy upcharge from the crucial m2s? Just looking at it and I can get roughly a TB for a little less than a 512 from one of the others. I'll pay for brand name if it's worth it, just mostly curious.
 

Jamaro85

Member
is there a good tn 144hz screen? im coming off a VA monitor so i cry everytime i use other people's monitor with that blue tint out of whack contrast tn panels. budget is 300 but i can stretch it out to 500 if there is nothig in the former's range.

Are there any other requirements you have? Resolution being the most important.

If you're looking for anything above 1080p I can't make any suggestions, but if you're looking for 1080p I'd check out the Samsung CFG70. It is available in 24" for $300-350 and 27" for ~$450.

It's a curved 144hz VA panel that has FreeSync (70Hz - 144Hz). There have been a couple issues people have been having that thankfully have been a non-issue for me. If you're at all interested in this monitor check out the Amazon reviews (importantly the negative ones so you understand the possible issues you could run into), or let me know and I can sum it up. Personally I could not find another monitor that checked all the boxes, and this one did it.

If you're interested in a comprehensive review/breakdown:

https://pcmonitors.info/reviews/samsung-c24fg70/

If you need anything other than 1080p then obviously this can all be disregarded. =) I've had the monitor for about a week now and the only issue I have is a thin line of purple flickering on the right side of the screen, but only when the screen is black there and only when FreeSync is on, and it usually doesn't bother me (if it does I just turn FreeSync off and it goes away). I guess I should also mention that the stand is quite large and does not allow you to bring the panel within 9" of a wall if you have your desk against one. Otherwise I couldn't be happier and love the monitor for both it's vibrancy and gaming friendly properties.
 

Jamaro85

Member
Does anyone know if the m2 Sandisc/Samsung m2s are really worth the heavy upcharge from the crucial m2s? Just looking at it and I can get roughly a TB for a little less than a 512 from one of the others. I'll pay for brand name if it's worth it, just mostly curious.

If you're talking about the Crucial MX300 it is basically a SATA drive in the m.2 form factor and is not getting the benefit of PCI-e. The same goes for the Samsung 850 EVO.

You'll have to determine whether you think you would benefit from having a true NVMe drive and whether it's worth the cost. But yeah, if you're talking about the MX300 that is the reason the 1 TB may be cheaper than the 512 GB version of something like the Samsung 960 EVO (definitely 960 PRO).

(Not wanting to spend much on a 512 GB m.2 drive I went with the Intel 600p just to have NVMe and not SATA, but that is as entry level as it gets and it doesn't always significantly outperform SATA m.2s. I find it more than gets the job done for gaming though.)
 

Vipu

Banned
Nope, m.2 is only useful for transferring big files ?

Yes pretty much, there is no difference compared to normal SSD:s unless you transfer/handle big files.

Tho im not 100% sure, I have checked a bit differences with SSD:s and M.2 and thats all I found, good only if you move big files around.
 

Melubas

Member
Probably going to switch out my oc:d 390x for AMD:s new high-end card when it's out later this year. I have an I7 4770k and 16gb of 1600mhz DDR3 memory. Is it worth it switching out the entire motherboard just to get better DDR4 memory and a Kaby Lake processor? I mean, will there be a noticeable difference in how games run?
 
Yes pretty much, there is no difference compared to normal SSD:s unless you transfer/handle big files.

Tho im not 100% sure, I have checked a bit differences with SSD:s and M.2 and thats all I found, good only if you move big files around.

So, M.2 would be good in a graphic design PC?
 

kuYuri

Member
Probably going to switch out my oc:d 390x for AMD:s new high-end card when it's out later this year. I have an I7 4770k and 16gb of 1600mhz DDR3 memory. Is it worth it switching out the entire motherboard just to get better DDR4 memory and a Kaby Lake processor? I mean, will there be a noticeable difference in how games run?

There is some difference, but it depends on the game. I don't think it will always be noticeable.

If you game on a high refresh rate monitor like 144+hz, going Kaby Lake and high frequency DDR4 might be a useful way to gain an extra 10 frames or so if you don't mind spending the money. If you are on a normal 60hz monitor, it would not be worth it to upgrade. I'd sooner upgrade the GPU cause that 390x will get long in the tooth depending on what games you play and the settings you use. Also, that card gets hot compared to newer cards.
 

Jamaro85

Member

sono

Gold Member
So I just came across this website siliconlottery.com and also the information that the Intel Kaby Lake cpus (7700k) and also 7600 hugely benefit from opening up and replacing the original Intel applied thermal compound with liquid metal thermal compound and replacing. People are talking about 20C lower at 5GHz clock speed before and after. Siliconlottery actually test how fast they can get the intel chips up to so you know you will have a good one for clocking and also provide the delid and replace thermal compound service.

I just ordered a 5.1GHz with the delid service included so will let you know how I get on.

Anyone else use these guys ?
 

enewtabie

Member
So I started working on it last night,but I think I'm going to need some custom cables. I'm thinking either red or a gray/black. Its amazing how small this case is and that you can fit so much in it.

 

LilJoka

Member
So I just came across this website siliconlottery.com and also the information that the Intel Kaby Lake cpus (7700k) and also 7600 hugely benefit from opening up and replacing the original Intel applied thermal compound with liquid metal thermal compound and replacing. People are talking about 20C lower at 5GHz clock speed before and after. Siliconlottery actually test how fast they can get the intel chips up to so you know you will have a good one for clocking and also provide the delid and replace thermal compound service.

I just ordered a 5.1GHz with the delid service included so will let you know how I get on.

Anyone else use these guys ?

Plenty do at overclock.net.
Delid with 3D printed tool is surprisingly easy.
 
So I just came across this website siliconlottery.com and also the information that the Intel Kaby Lake cpus (7700k) and also 7600 hugely benefit from opening up and replacing the original Intel applied thermal compound with liquid metal thermal compound and replacing. People are talking about 20C lower at 5GHz clock speed before and after. Siliconlottery actually test how fast they can get the intel chips up to so you know you will have a good one for clocking and also provide the delid and replace thermal compound service.

I just ordered a 5.1GHz with the delid service included so will let you know how I get on.

Anyone else use these guys ?

Delidding has been almost a requirement to get the most out of Intel's chips since Ivy Bridge. Welcome to 2012.
 

appaws

Banned
She has a Samsung 850 EVO right now... Any reason to go with M.2 when I upgrade her PC to Ryzen?

I bought one of those really cheap Crucial ones...1TB for $239. I know it is basically the same performance as a sata drive, but for me the removal of sata cables from my system is priceless. I am that much of an appearance whore.
 
Tax refund coming soon. Gonna get myself a new PC with it, reusing some of my old parts.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-7600K 3.8GHz Quad-Core Processor ($239.99 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler (Purchased For $0.00)
Motherboard: MSI B250 PC MATE ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($98.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Kingston HyperX Fury Black 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($119.79 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB FTW ACX 2.0 Video Card (Purchased For $0.00)
Case: Thermaltake Overseer RX-I ATX Full Tower Case ($64.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Corsair Builder 600W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply (Purchased For $0.00)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($19.99 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Pro OEM 64-bit ($99.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $693.72

Any corners I could afford to cut here to save some dosh? Or anything that looks wrong and/or behind the curve I should fix/spend a bit more on?
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top Bottom