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"I Need a New PC!" 2023. 6-24 Cores, Frame Generation, Enhanced Ray Tracing & Direct Storage.

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P

Pandemic

Member
GHG said:
Tbh there are so many decent well priced PSU options these days that it isn't even worth the risk or investigation.
Click to expand...

rsouzadk said:
Just see the video GN in the post above.

I would avoid them at all costs.
Click to expand...

StereoVsn said:
Gigabyte should be avoided in general. Their PSUs literally exploded and just now they are denying warranty on cracked 4090 PCBs. They are a terrible company.
Click to expand...

Thanks guys for the response, appreciate it.

I can't seem to change the PSU with the build I listed as it's already been built. I'll have to try purchase the build elsewhere or risk it... Which based off the video and what you guys have said, is too risky.
 
GreatnessRD

GreatnessRD

Member
Pandemic said:
Thanks guys for the response, appreciate it.

I can't seem to change the PSU with the build I listed as it's already been built. I'll have to try purchase the build elsewhere or risk it... Which based off the video and what you guys have said, is too risky.
Click to expand...
Again, my opinion, but if its already been built, I wouldn't worry about it. Plenty of people have purchased Gigabyte PSU since this fiasco. I'm sure they've corrected the issue and it wasn't all their models.
 
P

Pandemic

Member
GreatnessRD said:
Again, my opinion, but if its already been built, I wouldn't worry about it. Plenty of people have purchased Gigabyte PSU since this fiasco. I'm sure they've corrected the issue and it wasn't all their models.
Click to expand...
The bloke I spoke to at the store admitted to their being an issue with a “previous model” PSU where it would explode and whatnot but said it’s since been resolved.

I’m looking at copying the parts to a different website and have them build it but with a different PSU. Would rather be safe than sorry.

Thanks for your help mate.
 
Ocean Dweller

Ocean Dweller

Member
Bojji said:
8GB of VRAM is potentially killing your RT performance. RT taxes CPU and adds more VRAM usage. Changing CPU will help you a lot in some games but so would GPU with more memory.

For example Hogwarts legacy require a lot of VRAM and powerful CPU to run above 60 with RT on (not to mention GPU fast enough to render it).
Click to expand...
but do you think it's worth upgrading now if I run games fine without RT? I'm not really concerned about not having RT TBH
 
Bojji

Bojji

Member
Ocean Dweller said:
but do you think it's worth upgrading now if I run games fine without RT? I'm not really concerned about not having RT TBH
Click to expand...

If you menage your texture settings playing without RT should be ok on 3070ti for some time now. For CPU, there are super heavy games (like Jedi, Hogwarts, Witcher 3) that will show you some big differences if you change go 13 series, but those games are also much heavier with RT than without...

For big and noticeable upgrade you need to change GPU, CPU and RAM.

13700k will be a good platform for changing GPU later.
 
Ocean Dweller

Ocean Dweller

Member
Bojji said:
If you menage your texture settings playing without RT should be ok on 3070ti for some time now. For CPU, there are super heavy games (like Jedi, Hogwarts, Witcher 3) that will show you some big differences if you change go 13 series, but those games are also much heavier with RT than without...

For big and noticeable upgrade you need to change GPU, CPU and RAM.

13700k will be a good platform for changing GPU later.
Click to expand...
I appreciate it! I also planned on getting DDR 5 6000 along with the i7 13700
 
Liquid_015

Liquid_015

Gold Member
Looking to sell the following spec'd USED PC:

CPU: Intel i7 7700k
Mobo: Asus Strix Z370
Ram: 16gb DDR4
Cooler: NZX X63 (280mm)
GPU: Asus RTX 3060 Ti 8GB Dual OC
PSU: 650W Gold

How much do you think its worth?
 
crazepharmacist

crazepharmacist

Member
What's a good USB microphone strictly for online gaming (no podcast/streaming or any of that bs)? Just want something good to play Warzone 2 with. I have sennheiser audiophile headphones with a DAC/AMP. Don't want to replace that with a headset
 
cinnamonandgravy

cinnamonandgravy

Member
GHG said:
Tbh there are so many decent well priced PSU options these days that it isn't even worth the risk or investigation.
Click to expand...
different story unfortunately for high-end atx 3.0 PSUs.
many manufacturers havent updated their product lines to atx 3.0 yet (likely due to the unavailability of parts), and what what has been released is basically sold out.

you want 1000w+, platinum/titanium efficiency, at least a semi-digital platform, AND it to be quiet?
keep waiting.
 
GHG

GHG

Member
cinnamonandgravy said:
different story unfortunately for high-end atx 3.0 PSUs.
many manufacturers havent updated their product lines to atx 3.0 yet (likely due to the unavailability of parts), and what what has been released is basically sold out.

you want 1000w+, platinum/titanium efficiency, at least a semi-digital platform, AND it to be quiet?
keep waiting.
Click to expand...

I've had the 1200w version of the Thermaltake Gf3 for a while and it's been great so far, I've not heard it over any of my other components.

Granted, if you're strict on the platinum thing then that won't satisfy you since it's gold.
 
P

Pandemic

Member
Looks like I'll be locking in this build:

Chassis - Phanteks Eclipse G360A Airflow D-RGB
Motherboard - Gigabyte Z790 GAMING X AX
CPU - Intel Core i7 13700K 8P/8E Core 24 Threads
Graphics Card - Inno3D GeForce RTX 4080 ICHILL X3 16GB
RAM - Corsair Vengeance RGB 32GB (2x16GB) DDR5 5600MHz C36
CPU Cooling System - Thermaltake Toughliquid ARGB 360
SSD - Kingston 2TB KC3000 PCIe 4.0 NVMe M.2 2280
Hard Drive - Seagate 2TB BarraCuda 3.5"
Power Supply - Gigabyte GP-UD1000GM PG5 1000W 80+ Gold PCIe 5 Fully Modular
Chassis Fans - Phanteks PH-F120SK SK 120mm PWM Fan D-RGB
OS - Windows 11 Home 64 Bit

Looking forward to it, thanks again to everyone that helped with their advice and feedback.
 
Jrecard

Jrecard

Member
Darkone said:
I am upgrading to an RTX 4080 and i have a power supply 750W, do i need to upgrade it or i can still use with the 4080?
Click to expand...

What is the rest of your components? But it should be fine, 4080@350w (often uses less) and a cpu at 100-150w while gaming = 500w so plenty of overheard for everything else. Even my 13700k oc'd tops out around 120-140w worst case while gaming.

Assuming it is a quality psu.
 
D

Darkone

Member
Jrecard said:
What is the rest of your components? But it should be fine, 4080@350w (often uses less) and a cpu at 100-150w while gaming = 500w so plenty of overheard for everything else. Even my 13700k oc'd tops out around 120-140w worst case while gaming.

Assuming it is a quality psu.
Click to expand...
It is a Seasonic PSU that i have for a few years.
Did not have any issue with 3080 i had.

My spec is:

CPU Amd 5600X
Memory - X2 8gb G.skill trident 3600
1 ssd
1 HDD
1 Nvme HD
 
YeulEmeralda

YeulEmeralda

Member
SF Kosmo said:
It's not really that they're a shitty design, it's that they're a new design. E-cores help a lot in tasks that can be split up and scaled across any number of threads, because those tasks are agnostic to those sorts of imbalances.

But gaming is much more complicated. Different threads are doing different tasks, and all of them need to work together, so a demanding process on the less powerful core can be a "weak link" and slow things down. This is also why single core performance is still really important to emulation.

As devs get better and writing for asymmetrical processors, this issue will go away. The e-cores still provide a great deal of additional power at devs disposal, but it's about making sure the right threads end up on the right cores.
Click to expand...
Considering games are made for consoles these days I very much doubt game devs will ever put in the effort for Intel's chip design.
 
nightmare-slain

nightmare-slain

Member
Darkone said:
I am upgrading to an RTX 4080 and i have a power supply 750W, do i need to upgrade it or i can still use with the 4080?
Click to expand...
My previous PSU was 750W and I upgraded to a 1000W when I bought my 4080. I could have easily kept the 750W.

With stock settings I didn't see my 4080 use anymore than 310W and that was me running multiple stress tests. 440W for the rest of your system should be fine. If you've got something like an intel 13900K and plan on pushing it hard through overclocking then go for a 1000W PSU.

I now have my 4080 underclocked. Max power it uses is 270W and performs more or less same as stock settings.

MidGenRefresh said:
You can probably count on one hand games that 'recommend' 32GB. 16GB would be enough but I guess since RAM is so cheap you might as well future proof yourself and go for 32.
Click to expand...
For now but more games are going to require 32GB. If D Darkone isn't planning on upgrading to a new CPU/motherboard with DDR5 any time soon then definitely go for 32GB RAM.

I had 32GB RAM and was starting to feel uncomfortable with how much RAM games were using. I saw games start to hit about 19-21GB and in one cases as high as 24GB.
 
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V2Tommy

V2Tommy

Member
When I was a young man, I used to come to these threads in awe of some of the stuff other people were getting, always envious of those that could seemingly have it all.

It's nice to see the community is alive and well and that people are still hustling to get the best value.
 
D

Darkone

Member
nightmare-slain said:
My previous PSU was 750W and I upgraded to a 1000W when I bought my 4080. I could have easily kept the 750W.

With stock settings I didn't see my 4080 use anymore than 310W and that was me running multiple stress tests. 440W for the rest of your system should be fine. If you've got something like an intel 13900K and plan on pushing it hard through overclocking then go for a 1000W PSU.

I now have my 4080 underclocked. Max power it uses is 270W and performs more or less same as stock settings.


For now but more games are going to require 32GB. If D Darkone isn't planning on upgrading to a new CPU/motherboard with DDR5 any time soon then definitely go for 32GB RAM.

I had 32GB RAM and was starting to feel uncomfortable with how much RAM games were using. I saw games start to hit about 19-21GB and in one cases as high as 24GB.
Click to expand...
I was considering upgrading the CPU to 5900X as i dont have the funds for any thing more powerful as i need to change the Mobo because of the socket but i hope the bottleneck wontbbe that harsh but i think i will upgrade the CPU and mobo next year.
 
b0uncyfr0

b0uncyfr0

Member
Ive had my logitech G15 for about 12 years - frankly im suprised its still alive. I think its time to move on though.

Im a casual PC gamer and PC user so i need something comfortable (maybe mechanical)? I also have a Series X so something that could connect to both would be perfection. Are dual connections even a thing yet?

A decent mouse included would be good. What should i be looking for?
 
S

SScorpio

Member
Darkone said:
I was considering upgrading the CPU to 5900X as i dont have the funds for any thing more powerful as i need to change the Mobo because of the socket but i hope the bottleneck wontbbe that harsh but i think i will upgrade the CPU and mobo next year.
Click to expand...
If you primarily game, get a 5800X3D instead. The 5900X is a good processor if you can make use of all the threads with productivity apps or VMs, but the extra cache helps in more games than the larger number of cores.



For anyone looking for a midrange GPU, Amazon has a crazy deal on a dual fan MSI 8GB 4060 ti, the card is $379.99, but also has a $38 clipable coupon taking it down to $341.99. We'll see how the $300 4060 vs the 4060 ti ends up, But this is about 15% off MSRP for the more powerful card.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C5B4XNWR/?tag=neogaf0e-20
 
dolabla

dolabla

Member
This will be my first time building one. I have picked out the CPU and GPU. I want to go big with it so I've decided to go with the Ryzen 7800X3D and a 4090. There are so many 4090's. I'm not sure which one to go with. Any recommendations that are under $1700?

I am looking at the MSI 4090. Is this one good? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BG959RCF/?tag=neogaf0e-20

But there's also this one for the same price: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BG94PS2F/?tag=neogaf0e-20

What's the difference other than the X in the name of the second one. One is in stock and the other won't be in stock until July.

I also need help picking out a motherboard. I'm just not sure which one/brand to go with. I read the Asus ones were burning up 7800X3D cpu's so that has scared me. Did they fix this? I want something that is very solid but not too expensive.

RAM: I've chosen G.SKILL Trident Z5 RGB Series 32GB (2 x 16GB). This one: https://www.newegg.com/g-skill-32gb-288-pin-ddr5-sdram/p/N82E16820374358?Item=N82E16820374358

CPU cooling: Should I go with liquid cooling or air cooling? Also good recommendations for both?

Case: I've settled between the Corsair 4000D or 5000D. Will the 4090 fit inside a 4000D case? Or should I just go with 5000D to get a little bit more extra room?

PSU: I am looking at the Corsair RM850X 850W. This one. Good choice? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08R5JPTMZ/?tag=neogaf0e-20

SSD: SAMSUNG 980 PRO SSD 2TB PCIe NVMe Gen 4 Gaming M.2 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08RK2SR23/?tag=neogaf0e-20

I appreciate the help. I am looking to get all this within the next few days.
 
DeaDPo0L84

DeaDPo0L84

Member
dolabla said:
This will be my first time building one. I have picked out the CPU and GPU. I want to go big with it so I've decided to go with the Ryzen 7800X3D and a 4090. There are so many 4090's. I'm not sure which one to go with. Any recommendations that are under $1700?

I am looking at the MSI 4090. Is this one good? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BG959RCF/?tag=neogaf0e-20

But there's also this one for the same price: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BG94PS2F/?tag=neogaf0e-20

What's the difference other than the X in the name of the second one. One is in stock and the other won't be in stock until July.

I also need help picking out a motherboard. I'm just not sure which one/brand to go with. I read the Asus ones were burning up 7800X3D cpu's so that has scared me. Did they fix this? I want something that is very solid but not too expensive.

RAM: I've chosen G.SKILL Trident Z5 RGB Series 32GB (2 x 16GB). This one: https://www.newegg.com/g-skill-32gb-288-pin-ddr5-sdram/p/N82E16820374358?Item=N82E16820374358

CPU cooling: Should I go with liquid cooling or air cooling? Also good recommendations for both?

Case: I've settled between the Corsair 4000D or 5000D. Will the 4090 fit inside a 4000D case? Or should I just go with 5000D to get a little bit more extra room?

PSU: I am looking at the Corsair RM850X 850W. This one. Good choice? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08R5JPTMZ/?tag=neogaf0e-20

SSD: SAMSUNG 980 PRO SSD 2TB PCIe NVMe Gen 4 Gaming M.2 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08RK2SR23/?tag=neogaf0e-20

I appreciate the help. I am looking to get all this within the next few days.
Click to expand...
I have the MSI 4090 non X version, only difference is the X version is clocked a bit higher straight from the manufacturer. Honestly the cost difference is not worth it for what little benefit it is to you, plus you could follow the various guides online on how to manually tune your GPU to get the same results. I'm at work so I can't look into all the individual parts you listed, I'll list exactly what I have in a bit. But real quick you will want to get a 1000w psu for sure, give yourself the extra headroom when it comes to power consumption. Any 4090 GPU will be quite a power hog and you also want to ensure the thing powering all of your expensive parts is up to task.

Edit: In regards to how to go about cooling everything, ever since my first build I have stayed with air cooling and my temps have always been not only okay but actually great. Plus the 4090 is cooled pretty well on it's own since the specs during production made it seem like it needed to beefed up in that regards but that ended up not being entirely true.

This is the air cooler I use: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Y87YHRH/?tag=neogaf0e-20

This is the PSU both me and my wife use: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0997XYF3R/?tag=neogaf0e-20

Edit #2: I haven't looked at those cases you mentioned yet BUT if the extra room will still allow you to fit it in the spot you are going to put it then might as well go that route. You immediately get the benefit of more air circulation plus if you choose to expand in the future you'll have the room to do so.
 
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dolabla

dolabla

Member
DeaDPo0L84 said:
I have the MSI 4090 non X version, only difference is the X version is clocked a bit higher straight from the manufacturer. Honestly the cost difference is not worth it for what little benefit it is to you, plus you could follow the various guides online on how to manually tune your GPU to get the same results. I'm at work so I can't look into all the individual parts you listed, I'll list exactly what I have in a bit. But real quick you will want to get a 1000w psu for sure, give yourself the extra headroom when it comes to power consumption. Any 4090 GPU will be quite a power hog and you also want to ensure the thing powering all of your expensive parts is up to task.

Edit: In regards to how to go about cooling everything, ever since my first build I have stayed with air cooling and my temps have always been not only okay but actually great. Plus the 4090 is cooled pretty well on it's own since the specs during production made it seem like it needed to beefed up in that regards but that ended up not being entirely true.

This is the air cooler I use: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Y87YHRH/?tag=neogaf0e-20

This is the PSU both me and my wife use: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0997XYF3R/?tag=neogaf0e-20

Edit #2: I haven't looked at those cases you mentioned yet BUT if the extra room will still allow you to fit it in the spot you are going to put it then might as well go that route. You immediately get the benefit of more air circulation plus if you choose to expand in the future you'll have the room to do so.
Click to expand...
Nice!

So air cooling is pretty sufficient enough? I won't be doing OC or anything. I just want cool temps for my cpu of course.

Is the G5 model 1000w PSU good enough? Only because it's sold by Amazon instead of a third party.

This is the 5000D case: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08M49WW51/?tag=neogaf0e-20

This is the 4000D case: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08C7BGV3D/?tag=neogaf0e-20
 
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nemiroff

nemiroff

Gold Member
dolabla said:
Nice!

So air cooling is pretty sufficient enough? I won't be doing OC or anything. I just want cool temps for my cpu of course.

Is the G5 model 1000w PSU good enough? Only because it's sold by Amazon instead of a third party.

This is the 5000D case: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08M49WW51/?tag=neogaf0e-20

This is the 4000D case: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08C7BGV3D/?tag=neogaf0e-20
Click to expand...
Air cooling can be just as good as water cooling. And I have one of Asus's most expensive water coolers on my 5950x.. I think it was Gamers Nexus that has an entire video testing and explaining this issue. Go watch it.
 
HeisenbergFX4

HeisenbergFX4

Gold Member
dolabla said:
Nice!

So air cooling is pretty sufficient enough? I won't be doing OC or anything. I just want cool temps for my cpu of course.

Is the G5 model 1000w PSU good enough? Only because it's sold by Amazon instead of a third party.

This is the 5000D case: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08M49WW51/?tag=neogaf0e-20

This is the 4000D case: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08C7BGV3D/?tag=neogaf0e-20
Click to expand...
I have 3 big boy gaming PCs two 7950x CPUs one is air cooled and the other is liquid cooled with a 360 MM rad and the air cooler does a great job and the one DeaDPo0L84 DeaDPo0L84 linked is the one I use as well and its my favorite cooler

Not only does it do a great job but you never have to worry about a pump going out and you not noticing until its too late or the concern of leaks

The last PC I got was a prebuilt Corsair 7900X with only a 240MM rad and its doing great as well.

Here is a timestamped video talking about said air cooler

 
dolabla

dolabla

Member
Just watched those videos. Looks like I'll go with that NH-D15 air cooler. That saves me a little more money too! Thanks for the help!

Any recommendations for a solid motherboard? Should I stay away from Asus? Or did they fix their issues with their boards burning up cpu's?
 
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JohnnyFootball

JohnnyFootball

GerAlt-Right. Ciriously.
winjer said:
Click to expand...

After watching this, I don't know how anyone who is looking for a top of the line gaming PC would consider going for Intel. This was a pretty significant beatdown and Intel uses nearly twice as much power.

If you're going for a cheaper system, Intel may well be the best option, but AMD still has a 5800X3D that would be a good gaming PC for much cheaper.
 
Silver Wattle

Silver Wattle

Gold Member
JohnnyFootball said:
After watching this, I don't know how anyone who is looking for a top of the line gaming PC would consider going for Intel. This was a pretty significant beatdown and Intel uses nearly twice as much power.

If you're going for a cheaper system, Intel may well be the best option, but AMD still has a 5800X3D that would be a good gaming PC for much cheaper.
Click to expand...
The power graphs are actually worse than what was shown, because the AMD CPU offers more performance in most games it pushes the GPU harder, which causes the GPU to use more power, and yet still comes out way ahead in power consumption during gaming.
 
R6Rider

R6Rider

Gold Member
I did it. I built my new PC. Partially wanted an upgrade in general, but also wanted to play Starfield at a much better performance (hopefully lol).

Last build (2019)
2700X + 1070 + 16GB RAM

NEW build
7600X + 6800 + 32GB RAM

Will have it connected to my 1440p144hz monitor and also my 55" 4k120hz TV. It doesn't support HDMI 2.1, but can still do 1440p120.
Did a few benchmarks and only tested one game so far.
 
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cinnamonandgravy

cinnamonandgravy

Member
GHG said:
I've had the 1200w version of the Thermaltake Gf3 for a while and it's been great so far, I've not heard it over any of my other components.

Granted, if you're strict on the platinum thing then that won't satisfy you since it's gold.
Click to expand...
i was never picky about PSUs in the past, but now i want max efficiency and silence.

the thermaltake gf3 looks good, but it's gold, relatively loud (~41db), and transient response isnt among the best.
cybernetics testing - thermalright gf3
~1200w psu comparison including the gf3

i bought an fsp hydro ti pro 1000w (the PSU i really really wanted), but my order eventually got cancelled (out of stock).
then i bought a be quiet! dark power 13 1000w (this psu seems good, but not excellent), but it arrived damaged (something was loose inside the PSU... crazy).
i need a PSU asap so i can test the rest of my new components before the return window is closed, so i tarded out and ordered a dark power pro 13 1600w. is it a great psu? hopefully. do i need 1600w? hell no, need only ~650w... but the high capacity means it'll run extra quiet given my load.

friggin PSUs man.
wish the corsair ax1600i was updated to atx3.0. i'd buy it just because its interesting.
 
Wooxsvan

Wooxsvan

Member
i'll be joining the PC crew soon. been several years. been looking to get best bang for 2k ish. dont want to have to upgrade again for a few years. any tips on this build? any optimizations?
- i dont care about cases/rgb as long as it all fits
-no plans on overclocking so looking for minimum cooling to get stock clocks.

PCPartPicker Part List: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/nmLXC6

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D 4.2 GHz 8-Core Processor ($438.00 @ Newegg)

CPU Cooler: be quiet! Pure Rock 2 Black CPU Cooler ($44.90 @ Amazon)

Motherboard: Gigabyte A620M GAMING X Micro ATX AM5 Motherboard ($99.99 @ Newegg)

Memory: TEAMGROUP T-Create Classic 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-5600 CL46 Memory ($72.98 @ Amazon)

Storage: Samsung 990 Pro 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($159.99 @ B&H)

Video Card: ASRock Phantom Gaming OC Radeon RX 7900 XTX 24 GB Video Card ($949.99 @ Newegg)

Case: Fractal Design Focus G ATX Mid Tower Case ($59.99 @ B&H)

Power Supply: Corsair RM850e (2023) 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($129.99 @ Amazon)

Total: $1955.83
 
R6Rider

R6Rider

Gold Member
Wooxsvan said:
i'll be joining the PC crew soon. been several years. been looking to get best bang for 2k ish. dont want to have to upgrade again for a few years. any tips on this build? any optimizations?
- i dont care about cases/rgb as long as it all fits
-no plans on overclocking so looking for minimum cooling to get stock clocks.

PCPartPicker Part List: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/nmLXC6

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D 4.2 GHz 8-Core Processor ($438.00 @ Newegg)

CPU Cooler: be quiet! Pure Rock 2 Black CPU Cooler ($44.90 @ Amazon)

Motherboard: Gigabyte A620M GAMING X Micro ATX AM5 Motherboard ($99.99 @ Newegg)

Memory: TEAMGROUP T-Create Classic 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-5600 CL46 Memory ($72.98 @ Amazon)

Storage: Samsung 990 Pro 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($159.99 @ B&H)

Video Card: ASRock Phantom Gaming OC Radeon RX 7900 XTX 24 GB Video Card ($949.99 @ Newegg)

Case: Fractal Design Focus G ATX Mid Tower Case ($59.99 @ B&H)

Power Supply: Corsair RM850e (2023) 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($129.99 @ Amazon)

Total: $1955.83
Click to expand...
Do you plan on mostly gaming at 4k 60? 1440p? You could consider getting a cheaper GPU depending on this. Or alternatively go with a cheaper CPU instead. In my case I got a great deal on a used 6800 (non-XT) and it will be plenty for 1440p gaming at mostly 120fps.

Also, keep in mind that you have a Micro ATX mobo listed. This might lead to some issues with fitting things, especially the GPU.

Fractal Design make good cases, but not sure on needing one with front slots unless you are planning to put in a disc drive. Double check the GPU will fit in the case (generally without needing to move any front intake fans).

Also, there are plenty of other options for Storage that are cheaper than that too. For my recent build I got a Kingston M.2 2TB for $70 and a Samsung 870 SSD 1TB for 50 bucks with a deal.
 
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